Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Elliot, Cyndie Bransford & Beth Renn, 1995
Page Views: 1,238 total · 7/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Good positioning on arete with positive hands leads to a pure slab finish. The rock is a little grainy, but not too bad.


Four bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A fun and worthwhile route to do once the somewhat unpleasant approach is done. A more enjoyable route than White Rabbit with more interesting moves and position and far better protection. Dec 13, 2004
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
Where is this climb? Its not listed in my 1992 Vogel guide. Mar 14, 2007
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
It's on the arete 15' right of White Rabbit. Fun climb. Mar 14, 2007
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
All bolts on this have been replaced today along with a nice new anchor. Jan 29, 2012
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com

So you added a bolt anchor??? What about the pro to 4 and the walkoff? Jan 30, 2012
It would take more time to thread the rope through new rap anchors than do the 10 second walkoff. Jan 30, 2012
Bob Gaines
Bob Gaines  
Thanks Todd, for authorizing that, and thanks to the bolt replacers for their hard work and effort....it's not exactly the easiest place to get to. The new anchor is a definite upgrade. I remember leading the climb, and downclimbing 15 feet down the backside to get solid gear to rig a TR.

It's a rarely visited spot with 4 great climbs, and the new bolts and anchor are a nice upgrade by experienced locals who know what they're doing and who have devoted much time and energy into replacing hundreds of Josh's aging bolts. It's a safer and higher quality experience now.

A better approach may be to ascend the hillside a few hundred yards to the right (where there are no boulder piles) then traverse left along the ridgetop, then drop down to the area. That's the way I descended the last time I was up there and it seemed like a much easier deal. Jan 30, 2012
Solid fun, using the arete at the top is easier. The anchor is a good edition. Dec 20, 2013