PRINT: Rock Climb Death in the Afternoon, Joshua Tree National Park

Death in the Afternoon

5.11b, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 7 votes
FA: Bob Gaines & Tommy Romero, April 1996
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress -…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Begin right of The Importance of Being Ernest (10c) on a small ledge. The crux involves technical and powerful moves past the first bolt (most people stick clip the first bolt). Above, move left to a corner and up passing three more bolts over a bulge (10+). Above the bulge, move left to the anchors.

Protection

Four bolts and a small cam. A 0.1 microcamalot (or equivalent) and brass protect opening moves if the first bolt is not stick clipped. The route shares the two-bolt anchor with The Importance of Being Ernest.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Death <br>
In The Afternoon (a) and The Bullfighter (b)

Death In The Afternoon (a) and The Bullfighter (b)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Murf	[Hide Comment] Crux right off the deck (20' up on a boulder), with protection that is hard to gauge. Oct 5, 2009

Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA

5.11b/c

On the FA we stick-clipped the first bolt. Pro: 4 bolts, medium stopper, and a 1-inch CD.

2-bolt anchor. 80-foot rap. Jan 22, 2018

Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA

5.11b/c

The start has been led without stick-clipping the bolt, on thin gear, but falling before the bolt is clipped would be a dicey proposition. Another option is to use a piece or two to aid up and clip the bolt, then lower down and fire through the crux (5.11b/c) with confidence. Apr 29, 2019