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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)

976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Tommy Romero, 4/96
Page Views: 493 total, 3/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 9, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Begin right of The Importance of Being Ernest (10c) on a small ledge. The crux involves technical and powerful moves past the first bolt. Move left to a corner and up passing three more bolts over a bulge (10+). Then move left to the anchors.

Alternatively, after the first bolt, a two bolt variation goes straight up over a bulge (10+) and then takes a sharp left to the anchors. This climb, also by Bob Gaines, et al. has been named The Bullfighter (5.11b)*.

Protection

Four bolts and a small cam. A 0.1 microcamalot (or equivalent) and brass protect opening moves if the first bolt is not stick clipped. The route shares the two bolt anchor with The Importance of Being Ernest.

Photos

Murf  
Crux right off the deck (20' up on a boulder), with protection that is hard to gauge. Oct 5, 2009