Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Tommy Romero, 4/96
Page Views: 550 total · 3/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 9, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin right of The Importance of Being Ernest (10c) on a small ledge. The crux involves technical and powerful moves past the first bolt. Move left to a corner and up passing three more bolts over a bulge (10+). Then move left to the anchors.

Alternatively, after the first bolt, a two bolt variation goes straight up over a bulge (10+) and then takes a sharp left to the anchors. This climb, also by Bob Gaines, et al. has been named The Bullfighter (5.11b)*.

Protection

Four bolts and a small cam. A 0.1 microcamalot (or equivalent) and brass protect opening moves if the first bolt is not stick clipped. The route shares the two bolt anchor with The Importance of Being Ernest.

Photos

Murf  
Crux right off the deck (20' up on a boulder), with protection that is hard to gauge. Oct 5, 2009
Bob Gaines  
 
On the FA we stick-clipped the first bolt. Pro: 4 bolts, medium stopper, and a 1-inch CD.

2-bolt anchor. 80-foot rap. Jan 22, 2018