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Colorado Crack
5.9,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 486
votes
FA: Billy Westbay, John Long, and Hugh Burton - Sept 1975
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Jumbo Rock Area
> Conan's Corridor
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
Colorado Crack is THE climb to do in the greater Jumbo Rocks area.
This 100' crack lies in the middle of the Corridor Face just right of Spiderman and is right-angling at the bottom, then vertical to the top. Face climb past large huecos to the right-angling hand crack. Continue up a vertical finger crack with nice face holds on exquisite rock.
Anchor: natural gear.
To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right). This involves a move or two of downclimbing or...take DE's advice: "bring a skateboard for the descent, you might have to ollie the six inch bump encountered halfway down".
Protection
Medium to large nuts, a double set of cams .5 to 2", plus one 3" piece; skateboard optional.
[Hide Comment] A very good route for the area but the rock is on the coarser side. Another quality route of the same grade nearby is Nuke The Whales, a steep, well-protected hand crack.
Aug 11, 2004
[Hide Comment] I vote to leave the anchors. The downclimb is iffy. I agree, that at times, unnecessary anchors are placed; these are reasonable.
Sep 29, 2004
[Hide Comment] By: The Gray Tradster On: 11.17.2003 Rating: 5.5 Comments: The original rating in the Wolfe book was 5.5. The bolt for the finish didn't appear untill the late 70's or early 80's. The last nut also had an unnerving habit of falling out. There were no bolted belays obviously. Last time I did it though, (Boy, we used to do this with only hexes?) shown to make a point. Adding anchors has been going on for a while
Oct 1, 2004
[Hide Comment] Much easier than it looks and a lot of fun. Probably a good first '5.9' at Josh since it is in no way pumpy, and you have great stances from which to place gear the whole way up.
Mar 29, 2005
[Hide Comment] As of Thanksgiving week '07 the "bolts" (and I use this term loosely, here) atop CC are present. Unfortunately they are fuggly, loose, spinning, and obviously damaged (by attempt at removal). If I knew a reliable way to remove Petzl Long-lifes, I'd have done so last week.
Regarding the argument posted above: coming from North Conway, I'm familiar with these pissing matches and the rock damage that eventually ensues. Maybe if someone in the community can mix up a yard or two of "J T patch" cement, it won't look that bad... but in the meantime those bolts need to be either pulled & patched, or (dare I say) replaced.
Nov 25, 2007
[Hide Comment] Bolting War Update: It seems at long last both sides have come to an agreement and called a truce. After years of placing the anchor bolts, removing them, replacing them... it appears a compromise has been reached. There is now one bolt there, next to the hole of the one removed.
Oct 6, 2008
[Hide Comment] Another great, long 5.9. Some super positions. The new Miramontes book has this as the only 4 star 5.9 in the park. Not sure about that, but it's an excellent climb. Definitely one of the best. Well protected and varied. At this post a single spinner remains at the top. Gear anchor necessary, or loop a block. You can rap off the Boulderado anchor around to climber's right, but getting to it is rather spicy.
May 15, 2011
[Hide Comment] Bolt is still there. Bees are insane at jumbo area right now. Offer them some water and they'll leave you alone. Not a bad climb but I don't get more than two stars. I doubt I'll be a repeat offender. Be cautious about the flake, it's coming down soon I'd bet. Easy walk off on climber's left.
Jul 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] Cool route, but I think it's kind of weird it's the only 4-star 5.9 in the new book.
To the bolt chopper:
I understand why you chopped the bolts, but seriously you are going to leave a single spinner up there instead of finishing the job? That is so F'ing LAZY. Either chop it, or don't. Pathetic.
Oct 10, 2011
[Hide Comment] The bolts were put in a place to make top roping this route a convenience. Who ever FA'ed this route should be the only person with the right to add bolts.
Rap the Boulderado bolts as someone mentioned. It isn't bad or spciy getting to these bolts in my opinion unless you traverse to them. You can slither down to them very easily through the wide crack above them. Sorry to perpetuate the bolt convo.
Feb 8, 2012
C.C. Gets sun in the morning, then moves into shade. Would be a great first 5.9, as it takes stoppers readily (if you don't yet own a lot of cams) and features generally straightforward pro and great stances.
Mar 8, 2012
[Hide Comment] Awesome Route! Varied with plenty of face moves that fade as the crack gets more thin and moves to fingers in the crux. 1 Spinner bolt still remains - walk left around the large boulder at the top and then right through the notch to a large ledge, Rap anchors will be to the right (Glued Bolts). Walk-0ff is also an option according to the books.
Oct 22, 2014
[Hide Comment] This was my third ever crack climb when I started out climbing last year and I fell in love. My very first was invisibility lessons on future games rock followed by another crack over to the left of it, but that one really won't count since my belayer pulled me up most of the wall TRing... I may not be a pro yet, but I love the sport and the vets have my full respect- that said I would recommend this climb to anyone! I'm going back asap!
Apr 3, 2016
[Hide Comment] The walk off is easy and requires very little actual down climbing. Hard to believe this was ever an issue. As of 1/08/2017 one spinner bolt remains.
There are still a few loose/brittle face holds after the first "pod" that will likely break if you yard on them. It'll be pretty obvious when you get to that point.
Overall an excellent route! This was one of my first 5.9 leads in the park and had me smiling like a little kid once I pulled the moves to the summit.
Gear: --------------- Standard rack .3" - 3" (Plus up on sizes in the .5" - 1" range if you want to sew it up)
Bring 2" - 4" gear & slings/cord for the anchor.
Jan 10, 2017
[Hide Comment] Personally, I did not really like the climb. Popes crack is amazing, invisibility lessons is the real deal, so is touch and go. This climb, in my opinion, is a waste of a lead. Im a beginner crack climber and found this one extremely soft. More of a face climb than a crack. Holds everywhere. The stone was of poor quality, lots of loose stuff. Next time I return to this area, I will attempt Spiderman crack.
Nov 26, 2018
[Hide Comment] Take all of your small cams along on this one. No particular need for anything bigger than 1", but #2s can be placed. No need for stoppers unless you really like placing them ;-)
Apr 15, 2019
[Hide Comment] As of 17/12/23 the bolts are gone or at least not near the top of the route. Belayed with the rope around some boulders and scrambled off.
Dec 19, 2023
[Hide Comment] Did this on top rope immediately after leading Gem. We scrambled behind the boulders at the top of the crag until we located the correct spot to set up the TR using a gear anchor in the vertical crack, which was somewhat challenging without having someone at the bottom to be our eyes. All that to say, if you plan to set up a top rope here, make sure to note the surroundings from the base first. Also, lots of pebbles and even some bigger rocks up there, so be careful not to hit anything off the edge.
For me, it was decidedly harder than Gem, and harder than many other 5.9s I've done in the park. So for me, it felt like more of 5.9+. That being said it was pretty thrilling and offers a wide variety of climbing styles! You really have keep an open mind as you ascend because you are constantly having to switch things up, diving deeper into your repertoire.
Sep 23, 2024
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CA
Re. the gear, nuts work great most of the way up, so if you don't have many cams you'll be alright. Mostly medium to large nuts.
Bryce Breslin Mar 13, 2005
Regarding the argument posted above: coming from North Conway, I'm familiar with these pissing matches and the rock damage that eventually ensues. Maybe if someone in the community can mix up a yard or two of "J T patch" cement, it won't look that bad... but in the meantime those bolts need to be either pulled & patched, or (dare I say) replaced. Nov 25, 2007
work.
Sherman oaks, ca
29palms
Las Vegas, NV
To the bolt chopper:
I understand why you chopped the bolts, but seriously you are going to leave a single spinner up there instead of finishing the job? That is so F'ing LAZY. Either chop it, or don't. Pathetic. Oct 10, 2011
Rap the Boulderado bolts as someone mentioned. It isn't bad or spciy getting to these bolts in my opinion unless you traverse to them. You can slither down to them very easily through the wide crack above them. Sorry to perpetuate the bolt convo. Feb 8, 2012
Oakland, CA
C.C. Gets sun in the morning, then moves into shade. Would be a great first 5.9, as it takes stoppers readily (if you don't yet own a lot of cams) and features generally straightforward pro and great stances. Mar 8, 2012
Auburn, WA
San Pedro, CA
yucca valley, ca
Tucson, AZ
Phoenix, AZ
There are still a few loose/brittle face holds after the first "pod" that will likely break if you yard on them. It'll be pretty obvious when you get to that point.
Overall an excellent route! This was one of my first 5.9 leads in the park and had me smiling like a little kid once I pulled the moves to the summit.
Gear:
---------------
Standard rack .3" - 3" (Plus up on sizes in the .5" - 1" range if you want to sew it up)
Bring 2" - 4" gear & slings/cord for the anchor. Jan 10, 2017
Phila, PA
Yucca Valley, CA
For me, it was decidedly harder than Gem, and harder than many other 5.9s I've done in the park. So for me, it felt like more of 5.9+. That being said it was pretty thrilling and offers a wide variety of climbing styles! You really have keep an open mind as you ascend because you are constantly having to switch things up, diving deeper into your repertoire. Sep 23, 2024