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Routes in Nuclear Reactor Rock

Chernobyl Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Helicopter Memory Farts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Nuclear Winter TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nuke the Poodles TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuke the Whales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stan And Ollie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
We''ll Get Them Little Pricks (AKA Cunning Linquist) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,569 total, 10/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Approach by either walking right past the main face of Nuclear Reactor Rock, then left into a corridor around the east side. About midway down the corridor, Nuke the Whales is the left of two obvious cracks.

Alternate approach from the entrance to Conan's Corridor: from the entrance (facing into the corridor), turn left and boulder hop through a small pass. Above, turn right again and head north. The large dome to the NNW is Nuclear Reactor Rock. Head directly to the corridor.

Start with overhanging moves to a stance, beware the initial big jug is somewhat loose. From the stance climb offwidth crack by using a finger/thin hand crack. The jams are supplemented by face holds left, which help keep the difficulty down.

Easy descent climbers right.

Protection

Basic JT Rack.

Photos

Nowhere near as good as Colorado Crack. Some fun movement and good length, but the EXTREMELY coarse nature of the rock is a huge detractor. Very painful jamming, even with tape. Maybe worthwhile if you happen to be camped at Jumbo, want to do something other than Conan's Corridor or Zebra Cliffs, are lazy, and don't feel like driving to climb something better. I certainly won't be coming back. Dec 5, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Perhaps as good as the nearby Colorado Crack and certainly deserving of more attention. Jan 18, 2010
Randy
  5.9+
Randy  
  5.9+
2.5+ stars. A somewhat obscure, but very worthy climb. A longer and engaging pitch. Should be on all aspiring crack climbers to do list. 5.9 plus. Jan 16, 2010