Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Diana Leach, 1985
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From the belay ledge step across a deep chasm with no protection and make some exciting moves to clip the security of the first bolt; more fun lies ahead as you climb on suspect flakes and edges all the way to the anchors.

Remembering the name of this climb as you do it is helpful as the holds will be doing just that all the way up this seldom done route. Oddly appealing in a strange sort of way; more traffic will undoubtably make this more pleasant and even bump up the grade. One star out of five.

Location

Approach this route, which lies high on the northwest face of Fraggle Rock, by walking left from the base of Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) and scrambling up onto a flake/ledge which forms the base of this route. The bolted face to the immediate left is The Still and also worth doing if in the area.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

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D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
This route has cleaned up nicely, not a loose hold on it now.

2 stars now! Nov 9, 2009