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Routes in Iceberg Boulder

Baby Steps S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bad Water T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boortemus T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bourbon on Ice T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cold Fusion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cold Shoulder, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deception S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finley's Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Girl Power S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Hot Tamale S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Icebreaker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kat's Meow S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty Woman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slightly Out of Our Minds S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stucco S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wildman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: L. Anderson 2004
Page Views: 858 total, 5/month
Shared By: socalbolter on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs the right side of the West face of the boulder. A very hard heel hook sequence (the crux) leads to delicate face climbing. This route may have been top-roped previously as there was an existing anchor above it and a couple of questionable holds (chipped?) at the start.

Protection

5 bolts to an existing top anchor. The old hangers on top have been replaced with Fixe ring anchors.

Photos

RTM
RTM  
Thats a shame if it was chipped and glued. It looked like a pretty cool problem. Oct 11, 2011
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Chipped and apparently glued too. There is funky pink coating/ residue on a couple of the obviously chipped holds and some of it smeared and/or washed onto the rock above and below those holds.

As for the climbing, reach will help. The crux starts with the very first move, is about five moves long, and there is a dynamic move in the middle that was at the extreme end of my reach at 5'9". The route is basically a V7/8-ish boulder problem with actual holds, to a 5.10- slab that gets progressively easier. Shady morning to early afternoon.

For a Josh route of this rating, if you're tall enough, this one is pretty do-able and would be a good candidate for the gym-trained crankers. Oct 11, 2011