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All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Nat… > Lost Horse Area > Playhouse Rock

Psycho Groove

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British


 Avg: 2.1 from 49 votes

Routes in Playhouse Rock

Anthrax T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Ice Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balancing Act TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beck's Bear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Break a Leg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Curtain Call T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dress Rehearsal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fighting the Slime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Final Act T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I'm So Embarrassed For You T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Irritators, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kline's Incline TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leading Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
OC Gym Trad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playwright, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Psycho Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stucca By A Yucca T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Ken Black, 1983
Page Views: 1,760 total · 10/month
Shared By: Locker on Aug 16, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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49 Opinions

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Description

The route starts easy and quickly involves good footwork - smearing and occasional small edges. Fun moves in the thin, crux section. Eases up after the crux to good holds and good feet.

Protection

There is a single bolt at the crux. On top there are two good anchors. Walkoff is easy and to climbers left if facing Playhouse Rock. Not what I would consider a beginners route. Can be top roped with draws/slings/cordelette etc...

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Photos

"Psycho Groove".<br> Photo by Blitzo.
"Psycho Groove". Photo by Blitzo.
 1
Psycho Groove
Psycho Groove
 0
Chris A - groovin'<br> <br> The distinct line of [[105846554]] can be seen to the right.
Chris A - groovin' The distinct line of I'm…
 0

4 Comments

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C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
A decent route that, despite the name, offers reasonable protection. The bolt was replaced spring 2000 and is 3/8".

Aug 21, 2004
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun route. You can place a medium cam under the roof. Still, I wish this climb protected better; it's a long way above the crux to the next placement. Feb 16, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
The route is good value ad to the area. Protects better than it looks and the slab area after the bolt is somewhat tenuous. It's good and both times to the crag never saw any traffic other than ours. Oct 23, 2010
Matthew Richardson
Durango, CO
  5.9
Matthew Richardson   Durango, CO
  5.9
Thought the route was amazing. Great start and easier finish, have to be calm on the hard slab at the beginning, crux for me was after clipping the bolt. Mar 12, 2016

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