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Decepticon

5.10-, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 51 votes
FA: Jim Thoen and Susan Hurst mid-1980s
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Sheep Pass Area > Ryan Campground > Manure Pile
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is located on the right end of the west face of The Manure Pile formation. This is a fine route with the height dependent crux at the beginning. Once over the initial pullup, the climb swings up and to the left with enjoyable climbing all the way.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Decepticon (5.10a)  climbs the smoothest section of rock left of the picnic table with Barely Crankin' (5.5) just to the left.
[Hide Photo] Decepticon (5.10a) climbs the smoothest section of rock left of the picnic table with Barely Crankin' (5.5) just to the left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Decent climb right out of the car (be mindful of nearby campers). The real name of this route is Decepticon, the name of a Transformer-type toy. See the link here -

hasbro.com/transformers/ene…

FA was probably early to mid 80's I think. Jun 8, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Thoen and his wife were bored when they did this... Jan 28, 2006
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
[Hide Comment] For me, at 5' 91/2" the route feels like 10a; shorter folk must make one more, much harder fiction move at the first bolt to gain the edge for the left hand.
After the crux, the route goes up and right, not left, although there is a curious bolt to the left between bolts two and three.
There are three bolts on this climb. As of this date the top (third) bolt is still very loose. Jul 27, 2007
bsavall
 
[Hide Comment] I agree with the other post that shorter folk may have an additional hard move to get to the good hold before the first bolt. At 5'7" that first sequence took me a few tries on top rope before I finally got it. Apr 26, 2010
Jim Thoen
Vista, CA
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Put up in mid 80s using an old rigging axe for a hammer, all I had. Tape I used to haul it tore near the top and just missed Susan -whooo, I wasn't bored after that Adam! (Suuup man?) those were wild times. Added the third bolt in mid 90s. True name "Decepticon" after the toys our boys were playing with. Had passed it over the years and nobody wanted to work it-hence the play on words. May 5, 2011
Canon
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Cool moves at/above the first bolt. Good left foot, smear with right, reach directly overhead for two-hand crimp. Don't get suckered into the second (or third?) bolt that's way left. Nov 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] There are bolts at the top. You can bring a medium nut or a #1 cam to put in before the final section if you like (and maybe fiddle some smaller cams in as well) but otherwise only 3x draws needed. Dec 2, 2023