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Routes in Chimney Rock - East Face

Blind Ambition T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flue, Right, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Flue, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Raven's Reach T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Alan Bartlett, October 1999
Page Views: 1,401 total, 8/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Apr 23, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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31 Opinions

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Description

This fun route lies on the east face (backside) of Chimney Rock a short ways to the right of The Flue (5.8). It sports 4 good protection bolts with supplemental protection in a series of horizontal cracks.

Not to be confused with "Flue Right" (5.10b R/X).

Fun and delicate face climbing leads to a 2 bolt rap anchor (shared with The Flue).

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2", bolted anchor/rap (same as for The Flue).

Photos

Gavin Bridgeman
Tustin, California
 
Gavin Bridgeman   Tustin, California
 
Good route with a fun lil crux! Stoked that its right next to one of my new favorite 5.8's Nov 10, 2014
Brian Chastain
  5.11a/b
Brian Chastain  
  5.11a/b
I thought it was 11a/b for sure if you go straight up the line past bolt 2 and 3. You could knock a letter off for each foot out right you went. Great climb. Feb 4, 2013
RTM
RTM  
I thought the line was obvious and not contrived at all. Bob followed the line of the best climbing. I suppose its possible to 'escape' to the right after the 3rd bolt, but one could also just hike up the backside of the rock to get to the top. Oct 25, 2009
JJ Armstrong
  5.11a
JJ Armstrong  
  5.11a
This route in my opinion is definately 5.11a, especially if you go straight up. I can see someone down grading it only after rehersing it on top rope then leading it, or scoping out the moves on repell . A true onsite of this line deserves a pat on the back. May 1, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
Kudos to Bob for finding this gem so close to Hidden Valley CG. The crux is perhaps a bit contrived, but the quality of the moves and the enjoyable upper portion of the route makes it easy to overlook this fact.

Step off a flake at the base, clip a bolt (use a long draw or a sling) and then work along a dike to a horizontal crack (gear) before railing right to reach the 2nd bolt. Getting to the 3rd bolt (a long draw or sling advised) is the crux, so take a cue from the name of the route as the sequence is balancy and inobvious (hint: stay slightly right of the bolt) and involves a lengthy reach to the good hold you'll need. Once past the crux a short section of easy slab leads to horizontals and then a brief sequence of fun moves past the 4th bolt (5.10-) before ending with a short crack onto a ledge with anchors. Some additional beta: due to the sloping nature of the holds at the crux it's probably best to do this in the shade, on a cool day or both.

This is a tough route to onsite as the crux is a devious and improbable sequence. Pretty hard to call this 5.10d, but after dialing the moves I could see calling it 5.10c - now how's that for a sandbag! Oct 15, 2007
Bob Gaines
  5.11a/b
Bob Gaines  
  5.11a/b
If you climb directly past the third bolt, it's probably 11a/b to lead it. If toproping, you can do a nice 10a route if you climb the initial finger crack of Raven's Reach, then move left onto the slab above the third bolt of Blind Ambition to the upper section of Blind Ambition. Oct 3, 2005
Randy
  5.10d
Randy  
  5.10d
An OK route, but contrived in the sense that from the 3rd bolt, you move far off right onto easy ground before heading back left to finish up the nice headwall. In fact, the 3rd bolt placement is pretty contrived as the only reason you don't traverse off right sooner (and avoid the hardest moves) is because you have to clip the bolt. Sep 28, 2005
Joe Brophy
San Diego
  5.11a
Joe Brophy   San Diego
  5.11a
A good line with the crux moving from the 2nd to the 3rd bolt. Good balance and foot work will see you through this section. Fell off the crux like 5x. I can't say how it would be falling on lead through this section since I have the security of a T.R. Sep 26, 2005
Benjamin
  5.11a
Benjamin  
  5.11a
This contrived line seems harder than 10d, though it IS REALLY FUN. In keeping with josh tradition in the grade, but not the pro. Bolt'em up Bob! Aug 16, 2005
Murf
  5.10d
Murf  
  5.10d
Found in Bartlett's Hidden Valley Climb w/2001 Supplement, page 120. Its noted as 5.11a, but I thought 5.10d was fair. Apr 26, 2004