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Mojave Queen

5.11b, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 27 votes
FA: Kevin Daniels, Tony Sartin
California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Queen Mountain > Walt's Rocks > Upper Walt's Rocks
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This premier Walt's Rock classic begins left of White Rain (5.11a) at the base of the formation. Begin in a low-angle chimney and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right (bolt protected) to gain a nice hand crack (5.10). Follow the hand crack to its end where spectacular steep face climbing (crux) is protected by three bolts. The movement and position are exceptional on this route!

Protection

QD's for four bolt hangers, stoppers, TCU's, and Cams to 2" provide great pro. A two bolt anchor / rappel station is at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bobby P. copping a lieback on the Mojave Queen crack below the bolted face. <br> <br> The chalked holds on the varnished face to the right are part of the route [[White Rain]]105724537 (5.11a).
[Hide Photo] Bobby P. copping a lieback on the Mojave Queen crack below the bolted face. The chalked holds on the varnished face to the right are part of the route White Rain (5.11a).
Evan starting up Mojave Queen in the rain
[Hide Photo] Evan starting up Mojave Queen in the rain

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy
Lassitude 33
 
[Hide Comment] Along with White Rain, this is one of the must do routes on Walts Rocks; with excellent protection. You will need 2 ropes to rap off the anchor (maybe a doubled 70 meter rope will reach). Otherwise, walk right to rap off anchors right of White Rain finish. Apr 22, 2004
Murf
 
[Hide Comment] Due to the variety of the climbing, quite possibly a better route than WR. KD plucked a plum with this one. Apr 17, 2006
kevin daniels
[Hide Comment] the route is 140 feet long maybe 150

it is good

kevin daniels Apr 24, 2006
Adam Kimmerly
[Hide Comment] Excellent variety topped off by excellent steep face climbing past a few bolts at the top. Superior to White Rain IMHO. A must-do. A circuitous walkoff around the back of Crack Queen eliminates the need for a second rope to rap. Nov 8, 2006
Phil Esra
[Hide Comment] A 70 got us to the ground by tensioning right, uphill. Be careful. Feb 4, 2013
Tradiban
 
[Hide Comment] One move crux and well protected. We repelled to a 70 to the base of White Rain easily. Mar 15, 2020
Bryce Ungersma
Southern California
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] This thing is sweet. About as full value as you can get. I found the crux moves significantly harder than anything on White Rain. If White Rain is 11a this crux felt 11b/c, but it's one move. Between this, White Rain, and C&B... it's hard to leave the park desiring much more. Dec 31, 2022