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5.11c R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Walt Shipley, 1989
California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Queen Mountain > Walt's Rocks > Lower Walt's Rocks
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb is on the Lower Walt's Rock at the west end. Thin face climbing past three bolts (technical crux) gains a shallow lieback crack on a right facing wall. From the ground the crack looks like it can be easily protected but placements are sparse because it is flared! Make committing moves (10+ / 11-) between small TCU's until a large jug is reached just below the top.

Protection

QD' s for 3 bolts (1/4"?), small TCU's (#0 - #3), and stoppers provide ample pro. Use medium cams for an anchor on a large ledge. The descent heads west on the ledge followed by downclimbing into a gully. Walk back east to the base of the route.