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Routes in Detached Wall

Cuatro Manos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Detachable Penis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Murf, Ben Craft, AJ, Tom Michael
Page Views: 267 total · 2/month
Shared By: Murf on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Left of Cuatro Manos, this is the center crack on the Detached Wall. Crack starts in an alcove, with a flake on the outside edge. A large, downward jutting, phallic shaped flake sits just right of the crack at the top of the alcove.

Climb the creaky flake to good finger jams at the top of the alcove. A leader may want to avoid using the as-yet undetached flake, although it is reported as solid. Continue through an offwidth to another section of good fingers and thin hands.

Protection

Standard rack, plus #4 Camalot, a small nut/purple TCU may be used at the start.

Photos

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Vernon Stiefel
  5.10d
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.10d
Sustained and varied climbing on good rock makes this a challenging and engaging lead - three out of five stars. Don't yard too hard on the "flaccid" phallus! Dec 7, 2004
Ben Craft
  5.10d
Ben Craft  
  5.10d
The route is left of Cuatro Manos. The phallic in question is actually rock solid and makes the move into the slot a lot easier. Apr 7, 2004

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