Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Reggie Thomson, Todd Gordon, Scott Gordon, Mike Brown & Howard Boyd, December 1985
Page Views: 783 total · 4/month
Shared By: Locker on Mar 23, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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On the back side (Opposite "The Chief") of the Reggie Dome you will find a large roof of darker rock. To the right approx 20ft? there is a smaller roof with a crack system above it. The start is off the ground to an awkward move to the right and then a step over to the left below the roof. Going right or left at that point depending on height/weight/whatever works. A small rack is all that is needed as the climb is very, very short. 50m rope is plenty and then some. There are also a couple of other climbs not listed on this site worth looking into. A short two bolt job in the corridor to the right (Felt like maybe 5.8 at best. New I think) with great anchors to rap from. Another to the left that we did not get on yet. but looked interesting.


Small amount of pro needed, small to medium, cams in particular in the horizontal below the roof, nuts above worked great. No anchors on top so build yourself.



BTW: Locker, I'm impressed (the route description). Apr 2, 2004
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Randy, did I actually give decent directions??? Wow! I must be learning. On the rating of 5.9 I posted....that's what I was told it was. That day however, the way I started off, it felt more like 5.I need to lose 5pounds. Apr 6, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8+ R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8+ R
This route will test the patience of many a leaders. I could call this a R rated route as getting up the crumbling crud at the beginning is not only the crux, but after standing up, a piece of solid pro is still not available until making a move out under the roof. I tried going directly up at the roof crack before figuring out to keep heading left to a nice left facing hold above and left of the roof. After getting a hold of this with both hands, a right foot can be placed at the beginning of the roof crack itself. Fun moves at the roof itself, but I can't say the same for the moves below. May 3, 2006
San Diego, CA
keli   San Diego, CA
committing moves down low.
pro is good. Nov 23, 2009
Pete eye
Fort Collins, CO
Pete eye   Fort Collins, CO
sorta funky, but leaning out to plug a solid bd .4 gives some comfort in going for the roof. Taller climbers can even avoid the awkward jam just above the roof and reach above the taper for the finger lock. holds out to the left and just to the right of the crack also make for a number of ways up this thing.

Did the 5.8 2 bolt thing to 2 bolt anchor that locker refers to as well. Quick, fun, and solid climbing. Might as well if your up there. Mar 30, 2010
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
Pretty crummy rock down low but great gear at the roof and above. Fun short route. Apr 19, 2012