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Routes in Indian Country

A Good Day to Die T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Flamboyant Arrow, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Last of the Gohegans, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Big Horn, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Big Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squaws In Heat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tribal Gambling T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Welcome to Indian Country T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Kris Solem & Ken Gohegan, 1992
Page Views: 91 total, 1/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 19, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the first route as you enter Indian Country from the east. Before you start the climb make sure your belayer is anchored to the wall (TCU's). Begin off of a boulder and traverse right on edges to a bolt. The first crux section (11+) entails awkward stemming across a scooped out area (good edges for feet - microedges for hands) and then searching for a hand hold in a flared tips crack located around a bulge. Higher up, the flared tips crack widens into a beautiful finger crack that ends at a roof where the second crux (11b) is encountered (bolt protected). Pull the roof and enter an easy / fun hand crack (5.7) to the top. Four out of five stars!

Protection

Small TCU's (#0 - #3), small stoppers, two bolts, and a few medium sized cams provide adequate pro. A large oak tree on a ledge at the top can be slung for an anchor. Fist sized cams are also useful.

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
  5.11d
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
  5.11d
Great route! In my opinion, the second crux (at the roof) is as hard as the initial traverse.

We descended to climber's left and rapped off some sun-bleached tat around a boulder which is in dire need of replacement (we didn't have any). Mar 26, 2004