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Routes in Medicine Bow

Granite Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peace Pipe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Murf,AJ 3/2004
Page Views: 2,829 total · 18/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Blackfeet warriors suspended themselves from cords via skewers thrust through their chests. They then flung themselves about until the skewers ripped through their chests. This was the Sun Dance. For the Granite Dance, you'll suspend yourself by your hands and feet thrust into a just off horizontal roof. As you heave yourself up you'll pray that the granite doesn't rip from roof.

Splitter crack through lighter rock characterizes the roof. The roof crack is actually composed of a large flake, which has fracture lines on the attached side. While it seems solid, there is a risk of the multi-ton flake pulling away.

Belay from a shelf high on the right side of the Medicine Bow, left of the roof. Climb left of the roof on exfoliating edges. Protect inside a cave at the base, and then launch into the roof. Big powerful hands lead to a long move into thin jams. Surpass the roof to the secure crack above.

After proving your warrior spirit, amble over to the Peace Pipe and take a burn on that....

Protection

Large cam for belay at base. Single set of cams, no nuts needed.

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