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Routes in Cactus City

Bury Me With My Boots On T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Cooter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Too Old To Die Young (aka Cactus Pete's) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
We Aim To Please, So, Please Aim T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Gordon et. al.
Page Views: 535 total · 3/month
Shared By: David Evans on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Pitch one: Climb the large chimney (one bolt at the ground)just left of the center of the face to a belay in the cave at the top (one belay bolt, 100'). Pitch 2: Go right out of the cave and climb a crack to an anchor on the ledge above(40'). Pitch 3: Climb the varnished face out and left past many bolts to summit (100'). Bolted anchor on top. Rap the route, 2 ropes needed.

Protection

Standard rack plus quickdraws.

Photos

tony grice  
 
Careful of loose rock on pitch one, there are a few death blocks out right of the chimney. 2 bolts on the pitch, one bolt is Almost at ground level, but it makes sense.use a standard rack. Belay in cave at 100ft. One nice bolt and a #2 Camelot for belay.
Second pitch is short but fun toe jamming up a crack. Exit cave to the right on a face. Offset cams would be helpful here.
Pitch 3 $$$$. Exciting face climbing past 6 bolts to summit. This pitch trends left.
All bolts looked good.
I was puzzled by absolutely no tat on the rap anchor on the top of third pitch. Like someone walked off. Weird. we put fresh slings on the bolts. Found 2 bail biners on the route, and no chalk.
From the summit. One 60m rap to the ledge on top of second pitch. Then double rope rap to the ground on a nice patina flower anchor we rigged. No bolts here.
Fun exciting route, in a beautiful remote area of the park. needs more traffic.
Gettin that " COOTER " is never easy. Jan 24, 2018

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