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West Face Overhang
5.7+,
Trad, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 1.8 from 59
votes
FA: unknown
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Chimney Rock
> Chimney Rock - W Face
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up.
This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof.
There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble down, or scramble up to the top of The Flue, and rap again.
[Hide Photo] "West Face Overhang". Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Brett gets some pro in before the chimney section.
[Hide Photo] You can see the chimney here, and far in the right top, is the roof below which we crouched for a few feet to access the final crack. A great climb where rope drag can become an issue.
[Hide Photo] Chrystal rapping off the West face. It might look like a bad idea to rap with your rope in a crack like that, but that thing is wide, has no constrictions, and our rope zipped right through when we…
[Hide Photo] Jason P on the fun and spicy traverse that gives this climb its name.
[Hide Photo] Jason in the chimney - I don't care for chimneys but this one is real friendly.
[Hide Comment] This is a decent moderate well worth hopping on if in the vicinity. Easily done in a single pitch with lots of slings, which is perhaps the best way to do this route.
It's hard to believe a climber would have route-finding difficulties on this climb as it's an obvious crack system. Another descent option after rapping from the summit is to circle around towards Pinched Rib and downclimb an easy crack.
Feb 26, 2004
[Hide Comment] The dotted line on the picture on this site is not the route I climbed yesterday using the Bartlett guide. I'd like clarification.
Feb 16, 2005
[Hide Comment] An interesting climb with a little of everything: crack, slab, chimney, traverse. I can't figure out why the lower section moves left and then back to the right; the multiple crack system straight up between these points is no harder than grade and looks easy to protect. I recommend the 5.10b direct finish when possible.
Nov 30, 2007
[Hide Comment] We rapped off the WEST face with a 60m rope without incident, ending up just thirty feet right of the route's start. This seems much more logical than the other options described. While it may look like you're asking for your rope to get stuck in the upper crack if you rap this way, that crack is wide and probably won't snag your rope.
Jan 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] I would recommend doing this with plenty of daylight left. Getting off of this rock can be a real pain since there are no rap rings at the top (that we could find). The rope drag near the top in the crack was horrible, especially after the long traverse!
We went straight up the middle section instead of going to the left - a bit spicier than 5.7 for sure.
In retrospect, we should have done this route in two pitches....
Jan 3, 2012
[Hide Comment] We jumped on this route without consulting any guides... so after the roof we set up a second belay station. Tried the direct route, not knowing it was 10b. Took a few falls, then we weren't sure if we should go right or left. We picked the wrong direction, went left around the corner where there is a fun cruiser finger crack with lots of features that I'd rate at 5.6 that takes you up to the top.
Jan 16, 2017
[Hide Comment] done in one pitch, w one long slung cam for the full rightward traverse. determination and inner strength overcame hellish drag. rap 100 ft via summit bolted rap anchor atop Twisted Crystals down to far left end of common starting ledge shared by Damper and Pinched Rib. west summit at eye level w I-Rock alcove belay for Overhang Bypass. didn't look like a 60 would reach at first, but it does
May 10, 2021
Avg: 1.8 from 59
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
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It's hard to believe a climber would have route-finding difficulties on this climb as it's an obvious crack system. Another descent option after rapping from the summit is to circle around towards Pinched Rib and downclimb an easy crack. Feb 26, 2004
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We went straight up the middle section instead of going to the left - a bit spicier than 5.7 for sure.
In retrospect, we should have done this route in two pitches.... Jan 3, 2012
Fullerton, CA
Oak Park, CA