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Routes in West Wall Outer (Buckets to Burbank Area)

Buckets to Burbank T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hanging Hungover TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holds to Hollywood T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Knob Cheese T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Bella Katchina T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ledges to Lawndale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Pullups to Pasadena T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Matt Cox, Dave Evans & Darrell Hensel, November 1975
Page Views: 2,282 total, 15/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start just right of Ledges To Lawndale and climb the easiest path through the initial steep section (it's possible to climb direct at about 5.10+). Once established in the first horizontal (medium piece here) move up and right aiming for the solitary bolt. Clip the bolt, pass another horizontal (small cams/tricams work well) and then make easy moves on positive patina edges. The last few moves are heady and involve leaving the security of a small ledge to do a short bit of insecure smearing to the top. Bolted anchor on top as well as a cool natural thread which can be used and backed up with small gear if the bolts are missing.

This is a fairly good route with an interesting mix of steep positive climbing and insecure friction. This when combined with the other routes on the wall can provide a few hours of fun in the sun (or shade) if desired. Two stars out of five.

Location

You'll find this route, the original on the wall, on the backside of the wall with Jane's Addiction and right of the route Ledges to Lawndale.

Protection

bolt, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5"
Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
  5.8 PG13
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
  5.8 PG13
Fun route. If leading the route, make sure you are solid at the grade (fall can be bad, especially at the start). Good holds all the way. Top past the last bolt was the tricky part for me but fun. Mar 13, 2017
Eric Holden
Temecula, CA
  5.8 R
Eric Holden   Temecula, CA
  5.8 R
Two bolt Anchor that needs some sling extensions for TR. Great climb. Big fatty holds till about 10ft from the top, then finesse is required. Highly recommended! Mar 4, 2013
72HW Holly  
 
I concur - 3 stars with the direct start which feels like a few 10 moves to me. NOTE: Easily set up as a top rope by walking up the East end of the formation. Anchor is 2 bolts however, not the single mentioned above. Feb 11, 2008
Kris Spevak  
 
Three stars for the direct start, fun and interesting. Nov 20, 2007
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8 R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8 R
This is a fantastic climb but I've only done it as a TR. I can see in one of the pics, a gear placement in the first horizontal. Man, I can't find anything but flaring crack. Haven't figured out how to pro it but well worth doing as a TR.

The 10+ direct start is a sweet sequence on smooth holds with no feet.

Glad to see the R rating on MP for all these climbs. I was surprised that they're not listed R in the original guide. May 14, 2007
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
I sent a young couple out to this area today and wonder if they are one in the same? But on another note, a lady friend and I were top roping the area today and as usual, the area and rock provided great fun. Ledges to Lawndale at 10a is another real fun route. Nov 25, 2004
this is a cool climb but not for a beginer at the 5.8 grade. the final gear placement is slightly less than bomber, and a fall from the exit moves would provide a nice ride and end with a need to change your shorts. i liked it. Nov 25, 2004
Scary runout, not for the weak at heart, I was lucky, my brother(rather boldly) lead the route whilst i followed. Oct 1, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
This was another fun route. Don't have anything else to say about it.............. May 13, 2004