PRINT: Rock Climb Andromeda Strain, Joshua Tree National Park

Andromeda Strain

5.7, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 1.6 from 49 votes
FA: Dave Davis, Don O'Kelley and B. Andre, November 1971
California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > AFPA Rock > S Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This route climbs a series of fairly obvious cracks up the left-center of the south face of AFPA Rock.

Andromeda Strain was a bestseller written by Michael Crichton and later made into a movie.

Location

The obvious crack between McDonald-Wilson and All That Glitters is not Golden.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches including the belay

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andromeda Strain (yellow) and other fun climbs right by the road.

Andromeda Strain (yellow).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.7

Oddly the FA party chose not to start the crack directly and placed a bolt on the face to the right. The direct start is worthy and slightly harder at about 5.8. Feb 10, 2004

Infernal Doom Fanatic

5.7

Fun, worth doing but not that memorable. There are some short and sweet moves, but it's basically your typical J-Tree watershute climb. Oct 1, 2004

Blitzo

This is one of the only, somewhat worthwhile routes in the area. Oct 16, 2006

seamstress

5.9

I was told that something broke off at the bottom and now the start is a 10a (but with a soft sandy landing). There isn't much to hold onto and the feet are all smears. The first time we tried this, several years ago, I couldn't do the start at all and needed a boost from my belayer. You can also put in a very small nut and use it to french free that move. But once you are off the ground, the moves to the bolt are below 5.7. This is a great climb for a cold day and a nice climb for a new-ish leader. If you include the first move, think of it as a 5.9. Dec 28, 2007

Ryan Kelly
work.

5.7

It's a slab start, I don't see how anything could break off. If someone is going to call that a .10a you're going to need to build a gym around the rock and put tape on the holds. As of today, it was all of 5.7, though the start is probably a bit less. Dec 30, 2007

Patrick Callery

The route is closer to 100' if climbing to good anchors near the top. Spraying aside, be prepared for a cruxy start and then easy climbing to the bolt. True crack start is tricky and also worthwhile. Dec 2, 2013

Donno
Newport Beach

Just tried to lead this and couldn't get off the ground. The start feels 5.9, no pro. Nov 10, 2014