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Routes in Cap Rock - South Face

Eat Berthas Muscles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Robocop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slim Pickings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slim Pickings Indirect T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Slimmer Pickins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Terminator, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Visual Nightmare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Dennis Knuckles
Page Views: 936 total, 6/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jan 18, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The right-hand crack.

A strenuous move starts the crack, which then relents. Up to the horizontal crack and the last of the gear protection.

A new concept begins; a tricky move begins the thin edging past 2 bolts to the crux, and, relenting slightly past one more bolt to the chain anchors.

Rappel off the anchor.

Protection

Small/medium cams, 3 bolts to a bolt anchor.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
I think it's 10b, the direct start is 10c and it gave me all kinds of problems, but not this one. Thanks for error in pro, I've updated it. Jan 28, 2014
Brian Chastain
  5.10c
Brian Chastain  
  5.10c
I thought this was a stiff 10b. The protection description is off, but actual description is right. There are three bolts up top on the slab and a bolt anchor. The second bolt is a little ways from bolt three. Not anything crazy for JT standards but could still send you for a good ride. All the clipping stances were pretty tough.....thin and smeary. Very fun though.

And Mr. Stark is right. The start was a real bitch for my girlfriend at 5' tall but no issue for me and I'm 5'8" on a good day. Jan 14, 2014
I don't know about upping the grade. I led this last year, and it was my first 5.10 in the park. I thought it felt pretty comfortable. We just did "An eye for an eye and a route for a route" over in Barker Dam area on lakeside rock, and that's rated 5.10b as well. I thought that route was substantially harder. Nov 17, 2010
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
I did this one twice. Very fun route. The last time I did it. It was very windy and when I got onto the face the wind felt like it was going to blow me off. The moves are hard and thin very balancy. With the wind it up the grade for me. So you think its 10b or really 10c? Feb 27, 2008
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10c
I'm going with 5.10c also..........this thing is a bitch! And I totally agree with the helmet idea on this one...to invert would have you in deep doo doo above the horizontal crack. May 2, 2005
Joe Brophy
San Diego
  5.10c
Joe Brophy   San Diego
  5.10c
I thought this was also a fun and very challenging route. I must admit that I did grab the hanger on the third bolt! It felt quite solid/insecure for 10b. Might be a good idea to wear a helmet on this one! I would say at least 10c but fun either way. Nov 15, 2004
This route is very height dependent getting off the ground. I'd also say that the face above is mighty hard 10b. Jan 21, 2004