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Wet Pigeon
5.8-,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2 from 133
votes
FA: Brian Sillasen, Todd Gordon, Jim Angione, Dave Evans & Alan Bartlett, March 1988
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Atlantis Area
> Atlantis Wall
> Atlantis Wall - Right
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Five feet to the right of the route, Men with Cow's Heads, you will see a crack/seam. About ten feet off the ground is a triangular chockstone. Once you reach this, most people consider you to be over the crux. I found the opening moves to be rather easy. Above the triangular chockstone, wander up to a ledge, then pull a bulge with a hand crack on the left side. Once over the bulge you stand on a good ledge. Continue on up where there is a tricky step from the left side of the crack to the right side of the crack. Once there it's five feet to the top. You can sew this baby up.
Protection
This crack loves small to medium sized cams and nuts. There is a large boulder about 10' back from the edge. I slung a cordalette around it. it's bomber.
[Hide Photo] "Wet Pigeon". Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Jill, climbing Wet Pigeon. Time lapse makes it look like a little like a free solo, but it was on TR.
[Hide Photo] 5.10b4me on the sharp end about a third of the way up. Photo by Mike Giblin.
Oakdale, CT
Portland, OR
brooklyn, ny
Twentynine Palms, CA
I found the start of the climb to be the crux and rest is easy! Dec 26, 2008
the couch
Still, a lot of fun! Jan 26, 2010
Joshua Tree, CA
the couch
I think all the routes on this wall (at least the ones that I can do) are fun. Amazes me that an area that's so popular today manged to avoid "discovery" until the late 80s Jan 29, 2010
Boston, MA
Note: A blast from the past. Jun 11, 2018
Fullerton