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Routes in Munchkinland Crag

Over the Rainbow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Robocop meets The Munchkins T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Smiles for The Grim Reaper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: James Weger & Aledia Matthies, April 1988
Page Views: 41 total · 0/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The most visible crack up and right on the face, starting from a ledge system. It starts in a corner and arks left, becoming almost horizontal at the top.

The overhanging nature of the route is not immediately obvious. Neither is the nature of the "flake" until you boulder up crappy rock to peer up from underneath. The flake is more like a large tomb lid, which sticks out from the crack, rather than flat on the face. Make the decision on whether you are going to hang on the flake at the base, because it ain't called "Airwalk" for nothing.

Thin moves at the base with slightly grain rock lead to a finger crack system. An odd move leads to grabbing/jamming the start of the flake. This move gives you little opportunity to perform the usual tests for looseness, as it is slightly dynamic. From there the wall drops away, leaving you fully suspended on the lid. Gear is available all along the flake, but you have to wonder if it's better to fall and swing, or fall and potentially take the whole thing with you. Once on the flake, you can continue to a section that is not a part of the flake itself. The going remains physical until you mantel onto the top.

Protection

Average rack, hand size for anchor.

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