No Winds (aka Toto)
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Routes in Toto Boulder
|No Winds (aka Toto) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft|
|FA:||Rondo Powell, Richard Tucker, Feb. 1988|
|Page Views:||39 total, 0/month|
|Shared By:||Murf on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionLet's say you've climbed Dorothy Does The Wizard, and realize you are only a 1-minute walk from this route. Your partner is the victim of a slow dial up connection, and lacks your sources. He has also ignored your pitiful cries of "Watch Me!", and "Up Rope!" all day. Now is the time for your revenge.
The crux of the route is right off the ground, and before you clip the first bolt. If you were leading this, I'd suggest doing yourself a favor; do the moves and then jump off. The first bolt is an OK quarter incher, continue past average rock to the next bolt. This is another winner bolt, combined with a Leeper hanger. Don't try to bend/break it by hand; it's all you got. Past this lovely is some actual slab climbing ( maybe 5.9 ). After about 20' you reach the next bolt, thankfully the most solid looking of the lot. It's not actually on the route per se, it's the belay. Unless some booty-obsessed fiend has been up there, there is a biner on this "anchor". At this point, decline to follow the route, instead generously volunteer to lower your compatriot so he can clean it. Your revenge is complete!
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