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Chicken Lizard
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 17
votes
Routes in Lizard's Hangout
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Alligator Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chicken Lizard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Goeb's Goes Gecko T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Komodo Dragon Direct V0- 4- R |
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Komodo Dragon Left V0 4 R |
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Left Lizard Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lizard Breath Arden (aka Lizard Robbins) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lizard Skin (aka Blue Belly) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Taylor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Lizard's Hangboatrd Traverse V0+ 4+ |
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Off to See the Lizard (aka Komodo Dragon) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Poodle Lizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Progressive Lizard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Lizard Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wally Gator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V2 5+ |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03026, -116.18244 |
| FA: | (TR) Kevin Powell & Darrell Hensel, 5/83, FL: Unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,134 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
One of the better and more mental routes on the wall to lead within reason. THe crux move is well protected but the rest is not. As well, the moves are unique and fun. The short length of this rotue keeps it from getting more stars.
On the SW face, find the left-most thin crack/seam before the chimney (3-4M further left) and climb in from the right of the bottom of it. Gain a decent stance and Protect before climbing through to its left side. Continue up the seam to the right hand edge of a horizontal seam/flake (poor pro here if you want it, maybe a so-so piece if you tinker for a while) and then up the lower angle face to the top.
Protection
This route does not protect well for a good amount of it's distance. Take a rack of nuts and a few aliens and maybe a set of ball nuts if you want to tinker a lot. Otherwise, place the good gear where the gear is good and run for it. The crux at 5M protects well with a small-ish stopper that is placed a/2 blind. (The large BD copper steel I got was VERY good) and up top the gear is poor, but the climbing much easier. If you fell from the top, the pro would probably blow the fragile flakes and you could potentially deck out (17M). The good gear is too low to come tight. The route certainly deserves and S.This can be TR'd from trad gead in a crack above + long webbing.
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