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Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 1 from 6
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Routes in Lizard's Hangout
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Alligator Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chicken Lizard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Goeb's Goes Gecko T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Komodo Dragon Direct V0- 4- R |
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Komodo Dragon Left V0 4 R |
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Left Lizard Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lizard Breath Arden (aka Lizard Robbins) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lizard Skin (aka Blue Belly) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Taylor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Lizard's Hangboatrd Traverse V0+ 4+ |
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Off to See the Lizard (aka Komodo Dragon) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Poodle Lizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Progressive Lizard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Lizard Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wally Gator T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V2 5+ |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03026, -116.18244 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,007 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
I saw a lot of people tossing themselves at this climb multiple times over the course of an afternoon at Lizard Rock, and amusingly enough, all at different places on the route. The position of the crux will depend upon your climbing strengths and weaknesses.
On the SW face, find a obtuse, rounded corner with a flake just to the left of the bottom of it. This lies 3-4 meters left of the Left Lizard Crack and 1 meter right of Progressive Lizard.
Climb up onto the flake on the left and reach the crack system right. Continue up, eventually going right out of the very shallow corner onto a face, which soon becomes lower angle. Alternatively, we also have climbed up further, continuing in the crack a little longer to the top (same grade). [Edit - This route is the same as the False Cilley Toprope (page 31, Bartlett guide). The boulder start is the crux, while starting on Progressive Lizard to the leftand cutting over makes this 5.10a.]
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