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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Rdside Rocks
> Rdside Rocks -…
> Lizard's Hangout
Left Lizard Crack
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 23
votes
Routes in Lizard's Hangout
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Alligator Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chicken Lizard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Goeb's Goes Gecko T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Left Lizard Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lizard Breath Arden (aka Lizard Robbins) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lizard Skin (aka Blue Belly) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lizard Taylor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Off to See the Lizard (aka Komodo Dragon) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Poodle Lizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Progressive Lizard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Lizard Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,484 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 26, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is not bad for it's venue, but like most of the routes at the Lizard's Hangout it's short length and unintersting position merit only one star. Futhermore, it climbs more like a boulder problem than a route with a boulder crux (10b, not 10d) a meter or two up, then easy climbing to the top. This route should not be rated 'R' as it is in the Vogel guide.
On the SW face, find two cracks that start within a meter of each other at the ground, but diverge right and left to finish perhaps 4M apart. The left option, which passes a flake at a bulge to reach lower angle, lower key climbing is the Left Lizard Crack.
This route ascends on good locks and side-pulls to the crux crimper then up - the rest of the route was moderate jams and edges, and much less interesting. Maybe a good first 5.10d lead for some due to it's ease (felt like 10b) and pro from the ground + ease of stepping down to rest.
On the SW face, find two cracks that start within a meter of each other at the ground, but diverge right and left to finish perhaps 4M apart. The left option, which passes a flake at a bulge to reach lower angle, lower key climbing is the Left Lizard Crack.
This route ascends on good locks and side-pulls to the crux crimper then up - the rest of the route was moderate jams and edges, and much less interesting. Maybe a good first 5.10d lead for some due to it's ease (felt like 10b) and pro from the ground + ease of stepping down to rest.
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