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Routes in Lizard's Hangout

Alligator Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chicken Lizard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Goeb's Goes Gecko T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Left Lizard Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lizard Breath Arden (aka Lizard Robbins) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lizard Skin (aka Blue Belly) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Lizard Taylor T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Off to See the Lizard (aka Komodo Dragon) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Poodle Lizard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Progressive Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Lizard Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 848 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 26, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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36 Opinions

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Description

THis route is very good for it's venue, but like most of the routes at the Lizards hangout, it's short length and unintersting position merit only one star. Still, if you are at this crag, it's worth a go. On the SW face, find two cracks that start within a meter of eachother at the ground, but diverge right and left to finish perhaps 4M apart. The right most of these, which passes a bulge at each right-hand-jog in the crack, is the Right Lizard Crack.This route ascends on good locks and jams with a few face holds and is a good route to dial in moderate crack skills on. There did not seem to be a particular crux and the climb was generally well protected.

Protection

This route sews up with a standard rack of stoppers and cams to 2.5".A TR can be set from a crack system up top.

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Soloed onsight on a very hot summer morning. Seemed like a pretty definitive one-move crux to me, reaching off a funky lock in the middle of the slanting section about 15' up. Jan 18, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I enjoyed this route even though it's short. It has stout moves down low with fun jug hauling above. Worth your time especially when the rest of the park is cold or windy. Jan 15, 2011
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.9+
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.9+
Guess I'm a whimp or I missed something. I thought this route was easily 5.9+/.10a. Fun route... a bit short, but cool moves, good protection, easy downclimb and easy approach. I'd suggest on the way out of the park. Mar 29, 2009
Dustysdawg
  5.9
Dustysdawg  
  5.9
This is a fun short climb. It has a bouldery start that is fun. It is better to not stop and place gear at the start, or you might get a little pumped. Do the bouldery moves then stand up and set your gear in the crack at you face level. Then lean right and start finger locking and smearing through the crux. Dec 31, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8+
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.8+
Yes this one is short as are so many out here. Protects well, in the sun afternoons, good jamming, next to a few more fun routes. In my eyes not worth seeking out on it's own, but when in the area (Maybe after or before Just Another Roadside Attraction 5.9 trad)give it a go. Mar 16, 2004