PRINT: Rock Climb The Orc, Joshua Tree National Park

The Orc

5.10a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 81 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Outback > Steve Canyon Area > Steve Canyon > Orc Wall

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This climb is on the south end of the east face of the west wall of Steve Canyon. It is in the shade most of the day. Enter the canyon from the south and look left to a "niche" with a nice flat belay trapped up against the rock on the left, about 30 feet past the hanging flake of Candelabra.

Climb a slightly flaring crack up to a bulge, Pull through the bulge to a shelf, then transition into the left (wide) crack which will take you up to the right end of a terrace. Belay from cracks in and under boulders.

Protection

A set of nuts and a set of cams from 1"-3".

Descend by rappeling with one rope from the anchor atop Candelabra. If you wish to TR Candelabra, after doing this route, you'll need a cordalette or chunk of anchor rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approaching the crux.

Cameron A. in the upper section of the climb.

In the lower portion of the climb. (Photo by Cameron A.)

crazy blood splatter on the start of the Orc, gnarly!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sean
Oak Park, CA

Continue up the initial crack and stay on the right to go over bulge, instead of transferring to the left. Harder at 10a, but why miss the fun part. Dec 25, 2004

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10a

I went right at the first bulge and found the climbing to be around 10a or so. The initial crack bit was a little trickier than it appeared from the ground, but still fun. Bring a cordalette for the anchor as the pro is way back. Chains to the climber's left. Apr 9, 2006

nathanael
Riverside, CA

Two options (left vs right) at the bulge, and two cracks to the top after the bulge. I tried both combinations, and would recommend right at the bulge for a cooler move, and left at the top to avoid the grainy offwidth on the right (unless you like that).

Fun movement, but the rock isn't great (grainy/crumbling). Feb 5, 2017

J J
CA

Pulling the short hand crack over the bulge (right variation) was a nice way to go. Enjoyable route. Oct 24, 2020

Jack Dawes

I did this climb without knowing what it was. I went up right to the bulge and wished I brought a #5 for the chossy OW part. A suspicious #4 worked for me along if a number 7 Hex. Anchor at the top was super east if you do a rope anchor around the large boulder a few feet behind the topout. Funky route! Glad I did it. You should to if you like mini roofs and a taste of OW. Oct 1, 2024