PRINT: Rock Climb Grand Theft Avocado, Joshua Tree National Park

Grand Theft Avocado

5.7+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 93 votes
FA: Dave Evans, October 1978
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Outback > Steve Canyon Area > Steve Canyon > Orc Wall

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The route to be descibed is the most obvious crack system moving up the low-angle S-faceing buttress of the South Wall on the West Side of Steve Canyon. That's a mouthfull...In short, it's the first route on the left just before you enter the canyon.

Climb up on a few awkward moves to gain a slightly flaring jam crack and continue upward to the top of the rock in that crack system. If you like a lot of pro, take a double set of cams to 3.5" (grey Camalot).

On top, belay from cams in horizontal cracks under boulders. Rappel with one rope from the bolt anchor atop Candelabra.

Protection

Carry a full rack, including 1 set of nuts and cams up to 3.5" (grey Camalot).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Grand Theft Avocado

josh pulling through the crux

Luke working the hand crack

Grand Theft Avocado

"Grand Theft Avocado (5.8)". Photo by Blitzo.

Lower section. Grand Theft Avocado.

Grand Theft Avocado.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Evans

5.8

This route (Grand Theft Avocado) is named after a funny event that happened to Spencer and Alan Lennard when in high school. They, devout vegetarians, were visiting an Avo grove near their home in Orange, CA for the purposes of collecting Avo's (the fallen ripe ones on the ground, of course). While collecting, they were surprised by an Irvine Co. OC Sheriff who was not pleased by their trespassing on "Company" property (yes, the Irvine Co. has OC employees in their pockets). The officer insisted that they fill several boxes with Avos before he arrested them, Avos were about $1.00 each in those days (way more than they needed). Lo and behold while in booking they discovered they were being booked for "Grand Theft", a fairly serious crime (more serious than trespass). Luckily the judge threw the case out as it's merits were questionable! A couple years later Spencer mentioned a cool hand crack he had found over by Candleabra and we walked over to have a look. When we arrived I discovered that the crack fit my hands perfectly and I soloed it on site in my tennies while Spencer watched. He decided not to solo it and we joked that I had stolen it from him! Hence GTA. Jan 8, 2004

Randy
Lassitude 33

Fun route. A good way to get atop Candelabra to set up a TR. Jan 24, 2011

Greg Littlehales

5.8

This is an enjoyable route that takes excellent pro with somewhat coarse rock and a somewhat flaring crack. I cannot remember the last time I fell on a 5.7 in JT.... but I fell several times at the crux of this route. Then I did it twice on top rope, falling once and sending it another time. Then after TR'ing the very enjoyable Candelabra, I had to lead it again in order to pull the anchor above Candelabra. I fell a couple more times at the crux.

Having cleanly led Bambi Meets Godzilla on the same trip, I would humbly suggest that this is a 5.8. ...Or a 5.7 in the same vein as Smooth as Silk. Apr 16, 2017

Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA

5.8

The anchor bolts and hardware were replaced in 2016, hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association.

If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, go to safeclimbing.org Dec 6, 2017

Matt Hagny

5.8+

Not a good route for the budding leader breaking into "5.7" Jtree grades. Dec 17, 2017

M Alexander
SLO, CA

5.7+

Very awkward through and through, its only redeeming quality is that it allows access to toprope Candelabra, which is fantastic. Oct 26, 2020