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Routes in Hook and Ladder Area

City H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hook and Ladder T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Poodle Boy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Lechinski and Randy Vogel, 1981 w/o ladder, John Bachar 1981 (5.12b)
Page Views: 919 total, 6/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

So lets say you spot an sweet finger crack which begs to be climbed. The only problem is the crack starts about 15 feet off the deck. Hmmm... If I only had a ladder. Turns out, in this case, Mike and Randy had a ladder, salvaged from the nearby stamping mill.

Climb the ladder, top step, and reach up for the incipient crack. The moves to get established in the crack proper are commiting, fairly hard, with high excitement potential. Your amusement in using the ladder turns to sick anticipation of a reaquiantance on the way down.

However, all is not in vain as perseverance allows one to enjoy sick fingerlocks as the feet struggle to find sustenance. The crack gently widens from fingers to thin hands to sinkers. At the top of the crack look down the maw of Poodle Boy. Make sure there are no cams to hook down below.

After you and your partner exchange high fives for completing a route shrouded with difficulty, obscurity, and genuine originality, go ahead and simulrap off, cause there ain't no convenience up here!

Protection

HB brass! Many thin to 2". Belay is #2 and #3 Camalot size.

Photos

Randy
  5.11b
Randy  
  5.11b
If truth be known (he says sheepishly), the ladder was much more solid on the FA because we actually bolted the upper end of one side to the rock and had a sling over a flake for the other (the world's biggest bolt hanger?). Bachar just yanked the ladder off (and bolt out) so he could do it free.

With this more solid perch, we were able to stand tip-toe on top of the ladder to begin the nice finger crack. Dec 23, 2003