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Routes in Echo Cove - South Face

Allergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atari T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Axe of Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bacon Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo Dog Band T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips Ahoy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
F.U.N. TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Dogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of God T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flake and Bake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon-Bartlett T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horny Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J.B.'s Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Life and Limb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out on a Limb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Veto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poodle Skirt T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Possessed by Elvis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Riddler, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sabretooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sicker than Jezouin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sitting Here in Limbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Statute of Limbitations TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
TM's Terror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Dave Houser, Ed Ehrenfeld and Bob Molloy, November 1974
Page Views: 1,792 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A bouldery start over a small roof starts things off, after which a delicate mantle and a few balancy moves bring one within reach of the first bolt (a spotter is helpful, but the best advice is to not fall). A series of polished slabby moves follow with one commiting move after the last bolt. Gear belay under the summit block and rap or downclimb (easy 5th class).

With it's ease of access and engaging moves this route has seen the passage of many a climber, and the polished holds are a testament to that. Short but fun and perhaps best done on a cooler day or in the shade. Two stars out of five.

Location

This climb is located on the right side of the large flake which leans against the main formation and sits almost directly behind a parking "corral".

Protection

4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3" (for anchors)
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
Thanks Todd! May 31, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
It's chicken shit special......that's why the C.S.....didn't want to offend anyone...at least that's the story I heard... May 31, 2012
Jeff Laina
Southern, New Mexico
 
Jeff Laina   Southern, New Mexico
 
Climbers Special? May 30, 2012
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
And the C.S. stands for what? May 24, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10c
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10c
As a frame of reference, it is harder than Papa Woolsey. Probably by a letter grade. The start looks improbable but is fun and easy. I found the crux to be a slabby bulge up higher. Jan 22, 2010
Pat C
Honolulu
Pat C   Honolulu
my first 5.10. Randy Vogel's purple guide from the 80's said it was 10a. I found this climb extremely frightening, I'm going to do it again.

-- Went back and climbed this one again. This thing is so greased, and it's got that really tricky start. I found it to be more intense than sweatband in indian cove (rated 10c, more likely 10b). I don't know what to grade this one, but it's slippery alright. Mar 23, 2009
Gregg Olson
ca
 
Gregg Olson   ca
 
This was my first climb in J Tree. I tore my tips up working on the opening moves. Then I saw the stem off to the right, made the move and cruised the rest of it. Super fun climb and well protected with bolts. Oct 4, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Not a give away 10b! Sep 8, 2006
vincent L.
Redwood City
  5.10b
vincent L.   Redwood City
  5.10b
Awesome route! Spicy start with a well protected crux. Bring a crash pad if you think you're going to crash at the start. The runout after the last bolt is not bad as long as you can climb 5.7 ... Feb 19, 2005
Bo Johnston
  5.10b
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b
Great route. I can't say it's 10c because I'm 6'3" but I can see were someone shorter (like my partner 5' 10") might for the start boulder move. The rest of the route is just fun with logical moves. A little run at the end I recall. The start involves undercling to left side cling and left foot up on the left rounded (polished corner). Yee Ha! Dec 15, 2004
Murf
  5.10c
Murf  
  5.10c
Do it every year, but I always have to rethink the crux. Dec 18, 2003