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The Little Big Horn

5.12a, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: Herb Laeger & Kris Solem, 1992
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Indian Country
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Golden Eagle Closures DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Begin at the top of a boulder with a small platform on top (Two bolt belay anchor). Clip the first bolt on a slightly overhanging face and make difficult / technical moves (12-)to a polished dish. Step up left into another dish and clip the second bolt. Continue on thin edges past two more bolts (5.11) and reach a horn at the base of a finger / hand crack. Relatively easy climbing leads to a bulging checkerboard patina face (5.9+). Small TCU's or stoppers / brass protect the final moves to the top. Exquisite rock!!

Protection

Quickdraws for four bolts, small to medium cams, and small stoppers. A two bolt rappel anchor is at the top of the route. Two ropes are required to reach the ground (140').

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Just past the second bolt with more crimping in store. Photo by AJ
[Hide Photo] Just past the second bolt with more crimping in store. Photo by AJ
Firmly embedded in the sustained crux section just below the second bolt. Photo by AJ.
[Hide Photo] Firmly embedded in the sustained crux section just below the second bolt. Photo by AJ.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Murf
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Continuous through the first four bolts, although there are stances. Not dangerous, but it will get your heart pumping! 4 of 5 stars. Mar 22, 2004
Murf
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I would add that the second had better be solid. Even with a fairly tight rope my second hit the belay ledge popping off at the crux. May 30, 2005