Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Borne et al.
Page Views: 812 total · 4/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 5, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.

The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.

The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.

This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.


Quickdraws for five bolts and small TCU's (#1 - #3) on the first pitch. Quickdraws for four bolts on the second pitch. Bolted anchors are at the top of each pitch. Two rappels to the bottom with one rope.


Mark J Gain  
Interesting climb, going to the first set of anchors from the last piece of good pro is spiceay...With some traffic this climb will blossom. Mar 1, 2005
In a 1 to 3 star system this is a 3 star route. Great and varied climbing, with 2 good pitches. And as was pointed out, a bit more traffic would clean up the the section of looseness. 3.5 stars out of 5. A must for the grade. Mar 3, 2005
I want to add a 'shout out' for this route: it's really really good and well worth the blood loss from all the Cat's Claw Acacia that chokes the canyon on the approach.

I led it as one pitch from the ground and found the flared climbing on the second pitch very intriguing and also very difficult. If led as one pitch I recommend the strategic use of a couple of really long runners.

Awesome! Aug 24, 2009