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Routes in Snickers - South Face

Dances with Seals T A2
Grain Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pussy in Boots T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet Ginger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
When You're A Jet T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
When You're Erect T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
When You're Not A Jet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Borne et al.
Page Views: 800 total · 4/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 5, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.

The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.

The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.

This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.

Protection

Quickdraws for five bolts and small TCU's (#1 - #3) on the first pitch. Quickdraws for four bolts on the second pitch. Bolted anchors are at the top of each pitch. Two rappels to the bottom with one rope.

Photos

Mark J Gain  
 
Interesting climb, going to the first set of anchors from the last piece of good pro is spiceay...With some traffic this climb will blossom. Mar 1, 2005
Randy
  5.11d
Randy  
  5.11d
In a 1 to 3 star system this is a 3 star route. Great and varied climbing, with 2 good pitches. And as was pointed out, a bit more traffic would clean up the the section of looseness. 3.5 stars out of 5. A must for the grade. Mar 3, 2005
Drewsky  
I want to add a 'shout out' for this route: it's really really good and well worth the blood loss from all the Cat's Claw Acacia that chokes the canyon on the approach.

I led it as one pitch from the ground and found the flared climbing on the second pitch very intriguing and also very difficult. If led as one pitch I recommend the strategic use of a couple of really long runners.

Awesome! Aug 24, 2009

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