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Routes in Snickers - South Face

Dances with Seals T A2
Grain Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Maiden T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pussy in Boots T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sweet Ginger S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
When You're A Jet T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
When You're Erect T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
When You're Not A Jet T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Borne et al.
Page Views: 776 total · 5/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 5, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located in the back of a narrow canyon on the overhanging southeast face of the Snickers formation.

The first pitch (11+) begins on a block at the top of a short chimney. Clip a bolt and climb into a dihedral. Technical stemming and gastons lead past three more bolts to a short discontinuous crack. Clip one more bolt and move right using a diagonal hand rail to a small platform. Moves on loose rock above the platform lead to a belay ledge.

The sustained and short second pitch (11+) continues past four bolts adjacent to a shallow, flared crack on grainy but solid rock.

This climb would be a classic if the rock was consistently solid.

Protection

Quickdraws for five bolts and small TCU's (#1 - #3) on the first pitch. Quickdraws for four bolts on the second pitch. Bolted anchors are at the top of each pitch. Two rappels to the bottom with one rope.

Photos

Drewsky  
I want to add a 'shout out' for this route: it's really really good and well worth the blood loss from all the Cat's Claw Acacia that chokes the canyon on the approach.

I led it as one pitch from the ground and found the flared climbing on the second pitch very intriguing and also very difficult. If led as one pitch I recommend the strategic use of a couple of really long runners.

Awesome! Aug 24, 2009
Randy
  5.11d
Randy  
  5.11d
In a 1 to 3 star system this is a 3 star route. Great and varied climbing, with 2 good pitches. And as was pointed out, a bit more traffic would clean up the the section of looseness. 3.5 stars out of 5. A must for the grade. Mar 3, 2005
Mark J Gain  
 
Interesting climb, going to the first set of anchors from the last piece of good pro is spiceay...With some traffic this climb will blossom. Mar 1, 2005