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> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Little Rock Can…
> W & S Faces
Nestle's Crunch
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 1.7 from 11
votes
Early Access
Routes in West & South Faces
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Bare Leigh Legal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chick Flakey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Chicken Bones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Bones Variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flakey Jake T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jolly Rancher Firestix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Jolly Rancher Firestix, Direct Start TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lips Like Sugar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nestle's Crunch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar Daddy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wayne's World T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02375, -116.15138 |
| FA: | Chick Holtkamp, Forrest and Dan, December 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,335 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is located on the southwest face of Little Rock Candy Mountain, to the right of Sugar Daddy. The climb ascends a striking dihedral that is capped by a flat ceiling.
An easy start leads up to the obvious dihedral. Good feet at the base of the corner fade, requiring multiple moves of stemming protected by small wires. Follow the corner up to the ceiling and pull past this (crux) to easier terrain. The route then joins Sugar Daddy for easy climbing to the top.
Unless you have very thin fingers, this route requires multiple stemming moves. A good precursor to the more challenging stemming routes like Coarse and Buggy.
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