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Routes in Little Rock Candy Mountain

Bare Leigh Legal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Bones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Comb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Count Chocula TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake Hickey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kendall Mint Cake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lips Like Sugar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Rock Candy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M & M's Peanut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M & Ms Plain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
McStumpy Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nestle's Crunch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirrel Roast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sugar Daddy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Musketeers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chick Holtkamp, Forrest and Dan, December 1978
Page Views: 446 total, 3/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Located on the southwest face of Little Rock Candy Mountain, this is the route to the right of Sugar Daddy. An easy start leads to a very thin corner. Good feet at the base of the corner fade, requiring multiple moves of stemming. Follow the corner up to the roof. Undercling and reach for the 5' roof move. The route then joins Sugar Daddy for easy climbing to the top.

Unless you have very thin fingers, this route requires multiple stemming moves. A good precursor to the more challenging stemming routes.

Protection

Small nuts, multiple purple/blue tcu's. Smattering of hand size for upper crack/belay.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Gave this a quick try today on TR since we were on the crack next door.... Good Lord! I was not only denied, but quickly upgraded it to 5.16c. Must have been a heavy gravity day. It will see me again. Nov 7, 2010