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Routes in Ranger Station Rock

4U2DO2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Barbara Bush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hercules T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Open Casket Funeral TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Owatafooliam T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pegleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pirates Of The Carabiner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Polly Wants A Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ranger Rendezvous T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scaried Treasure T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Swain In The Breeze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swain Lake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Swain Song T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Swatchbuckler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wall of 10,000 Holds T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,376 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Nov 29, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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As you approach the Lost Horse Ranger Station, you will see a formation on the hillside behind the station with a crack splitting the center of the it. This formation is Ranger Rock, and the crack is Bush Crack.The route looks longer than it is. It starts off as a finger crack that widens to fists.I found this to be a very enjoyable climb.


Small to medium cams. Anchor takes medium cams.


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A long walk for a crack of this quality, that said if doing some of the other routes nearby (Ranger Station Rock, S-Crack Formation, Hill Street Blues) it may be worth it. Jan 13, 2004
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
the start is the roughest part. a nice climb but short. from the base of the route you can look in through the windows of the lost horse ranger station and see what those crazy rangers are up to. not much when i checked them out. you can easily set up a TR for "barbara bush", the sweet face climb to the left , by climbing about twenty feet up past the finish of buh crack. Mar 18, 2005
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
fun route Oct 29, 2006
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
ranger station rock is a nice quiet spot with good moderate climbs. This crack is a lot of fun,and a real treat if you enjoy jamming. Unlike many josh jam cracks, this one actually requires jamming, especially hands, and the hands are good. Short, but really quality and an easy walk-off to the left. Apr 25, 2010
Jeremy Werlin
Cedaredge, CO
Jeremy Werlin   Cedaredge, CO
Long long ago, before the internet, I had sighted this crack from afar. Clean and stark against her shield of rock, golden in the sun, I did not forget.

Like ripping a barnacle from its rock, it is my time to leave the park. In the wheelhouse of my '79 Honda--only one seat with a beach chair for passengers--I feel a tug and turn my vessel west on to the dirt towards the Ranger Station.

Fires on, chalkbag, I climb in the abundant company of silent desert space. The jams feel good, the body purring from weeks in the Park. Descending, molecules of pungent white sage find my nose. I sit with the plant and sing songs from the sweat lodge where I first met her sister.

So many gifts from the desert. Jan 22, 2013

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