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Trad, 120 ft,
Avg: 3.7 from 19
FA: Craig Fry, Dave Evans & Dave Bruckman, December 1984
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland South
> Central Wonderland
> Elephant Arches
This is simply a great route and well worth the hike. The fact that several other fine routes are found nearby (and the now historically prescient nature of the route name) should put this on your "Must Do" list.
This face and crack route begins just right of center of the formation, on the face just right of a recess/crack (Vice President). There is a large patch of cactus near the base.
Moderate, but unprotected face climbing leads to a bolt which protects moves (easy 5.10) into a shallow crack system. Follow this crack to a horizontal break. Above here, a second bolt protects thin face moves up and right (5.10d -- height dependant) to reach a series of left leaning cracks (5.11a) which provide challenging climbing to the very end.
Belay at a two bolt anchor on the dike.
You can make a 115 foot rappel (single 70 meter rope just makes it) from the belay anchor. Beware of the cactus around the base when pulling your ropes if you do rappel.
Alternatively, downclimb the south shoulder (down and right; 5.6).
Bring a nice variety of mostly thin nuts and smaller cams, with a few up to perhaps 2 inches.