PRINT: Rock Climb Life Without Principle, Joshua Tree National Park

Life Without Principle

5.11b, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Jack Marshall & Don Wilson, October 1988
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland South > Central Wonderland > Thrutcher Dome

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Begin at the southern end of a light brown crag adjacent to the highest and northern most crag. Climb in a left tending direction past the 3rd bolt until reaching a horizontal at the 6th bolt. Continue up and slightly right past three more bolts to the summit. You will be greeted by 10+ / 11- moves above each bolt enroute to the top. The most difficult moves occur between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.

The coarseness of the rock promotes astonishingly good friction if you trust smearing on the tiny protruding granules. Three or four stars out of five.

Protection

Quickdraws for nine bolts (3/8") and an optional #1 or #2 camalot between the 6th and 7th bolts. A two bolt anchor with rings is on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moving left and up on easier ground to the 4th bolt. Photo by HHH.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy
Lassitude 33

5.11b

The initial bolts lie well to the left of the now natural line of climbing and require a bit of a stretch to clip. Given the nature of the rock, perhaps holds have "grained off" or I was not up to par on leading it directly past the bolts.

Continuously difficult climbing from start to finish. Well worth doing. Oct 8, 2007