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Routes in The Sentinel - East Face

Ball Bearing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climb of the Sentry T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Fote Hog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Guard Duty T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hog Trough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sentinel Beach T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Saga T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Dan Ahlborn & Mariah Cranor, December 1976
Page Views: 4,461 total · 25/month
Shared By: Donno on Apr 30, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route follows a pretty direct line in a large dihedral, and then over a roof. It's on the right half of the east face of The Sentinel.This is a great route, with the crux in the lower half of the dihedral, and an incredible no-hands "head rest" just below the roof.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
There was a party starting up the route when I arrived to the base, who overheard me mentioning the #4 comments on here to my partner. When the leader reached the bottom of the roof he yelled, "oh what the f***, BRING THE #4!" I brought two of them and ended up placing both in the top half of the dihedral. The alternative to bringing a #4, is hanging out longer underneath the roof in an uncomfortable position in order to place pro between the wedged chockstone that isn't the most confidence inspiring. If you are climbing well above 5.9, it is probably not necessary but for someone at their limit (like myself), a #4 would be nice. Dec 27, 2017
sheriw724
Los Angeles
 
sheriw724   Los Angeles
 
I followed this route with two great guys from NY on Sat., Sept. 24, 2016. I tried to pull a Black Diamond Gray C4 0.4 out and ended up pushing it in too far and didn't have the tools to retrieve it. The guy following me couldn't get it either. Please, if you climb this route, which is a great route, and will be kind enough to pull this piece will you please call me so I can get it back to the owner? Thank you so much. Sheri 310-435-9366. The piece is in before the crux. Sep 26, 2016
J Sundstrom
San Diego, CA
  5.9
J Sundstrom   San Diego, CA
  5.9
#4 definitely unnecessary, easy to do as one pitch. Great comfy belay at the top. Mar 26, 2016
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
def doable in one pitch with a 60m rope, approx 155 ft from ground to topout Oct 5, 2015
Canon
  5.9+
Canon  
  5.9+
Hard for 5.9! We broke it into two pitches, belaying at the base of the dihedral, which is hard to get up into, but the crux is pulling the roof. Great gear though. Nov 22, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Industry Standard for 5.7+. Sep 30, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Pffff to the above! Gear was solid the entire way. Wow! It's been a while since being on this route, 10 years? 20? What a gem!! Really nice moves with an obvious line, nothing tricky or route finding here less maybe the top out which is either left and finish Fote Hog or right and up a scramble to the summit.

Fun fun fun! Adding to my tick list next, may even go back in a few days during my hopeful tick and look for our escapee nut that popped off during Russ lead. Love those moderate gems! Sep 29, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Did this thing today. I'm big as a house, haven't climbed in months, and decided on this as a season opening warmup for hopefully better things to come. I thought it was pretty strenuous, sorta awkward, and I trusted about 70% of my pro. Typical season starting paranoia I would guess. Anyway, I placed a few nuts from small to large and popped in a few cams, that all seemed pretty good. Under the roof-let a #4 Camalot would fit like a dream in the offset, ballooning crack. A couple of funky moves get you past the roof and into some solid cams of the 1.5" to 2" size. Easy to the top from there, the top being a sit down saddle stance with some nuts and a couple of cams behind you. As stated above, move up out of this belay to climbers right then scramble up onto the summit slabs. The whole thing is mostly pro under 2", with the exception of the piece I would have liked under the roof, a #4 Camalot. A cool and varied route. Sep 29, 2012
ssp
ssp  
Western Saga haunted me for a couple of years. I was always looking across RHV from where we were doing other routes staring at this beautiful line. Dihedral, Roof, a bit of face climbing above, everything one looks for in a great route at J-Tree.
And the odd thing is I never see anybody on it, maybe due to shady in the afternoon evening hours. Slightly out of the way across from the trade routes.
When we topped out two F-15s flew right thru RVH did a high speed turn and came back over must have been only 200 ft off the deck !
What a sight. Oct 25, 2011
Manjushri  
 
If you are inclined to rappell there are chain anchors on the southwest part of the formation. A little scrambling and down climbing to the opposite side of the formation (climbers right of Western Saga) will lead you to the rap. Did it with a 70m but am sure a 60m would be fine. Nov 13, 2007
Darren D.
  5.9
Darren D.  
  5.9
A pretty nice route. When thin wall is crowded (always), stop here and do this one instead. You won't be disappointed. Apr 2, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.9
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Pretty typical J-tree 5.9. Slightly awkward, varied climbing. Kind of a long pitch, and a circuitious walk off that goes a bit right from the top of the route to gain the top of the formation, then goes back left to the south end of Sentinel to descend low angle terrain. Feb 16, 2007
Woody Stark  
 
I led this route many years ago and again yesterday. I believe the first moves at the start of the dihedral are 5.10a. Those I've climbed it with concur. Apr 30, 2004
Cpn Dunsel
  5.9
Cpn Dunsel  
  5.9
There were some cheater stones on the ledge at the base of the dihedral last I did the climb. Great route, really tricky getting started in the dihedral, but well protected all the way. Jan 21, 2004