PRINT: Rock Climb No Perch is Necessary, Joshua Tree National Park

No Perch is Necessary

5.10d, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
FA: Rich Perch, Vaino Kodas, Bob Yoho and Herb Laegar, Nov. 1987
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Rdside Rocks > Rdside Rocks -… > Jam or Slam Rock > Jam or Slam Rock (NE…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Pull a technical mantle (easier if you are taller) and clip the first bolt. A spot is not out of the question before clipping the bolt. Slabby moves lead past the second bolt to the base of a thin crack. Off balance thin fingers lead up to and over a roof.

The route is most easily approached from the right. As you look at the rock from the pullout, the top of a dead tree is visible. The route begins in a pit right of the tree.

Protection

2 bolts, pro to 1.5", bolted anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bomber!<br>
This is the cord (tied as an ADT) we cut down from the anchor and replaced with fresh webbing and links.

Bomber! This is the cord (tied as an ADT) we cut down from the anchor and replaced with fresh webbing and links.

No Perch is Necessary (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.10c

Short and engaging. All bolts are 3/8" and were replaced March 2000. Nov 10, 2003

Randy
Lassitude 33

5.10c/d

Actually, you clip 1st bolt before making the mantle (a balancy clip). Thin face past 2nd bolt leads to fun and easier crack -- thin gear for crack. Downclimb to right. Apr 3, 2006

Charles I.
Boulder, CO

5.10d

Cool climb and FULL value. You can clip before the mantle. Small wires useful for the upper crack. I managed to get two Blue TCU's in to protect the rest. I thought the cracks were quite tricky and consequently took a decent fall here. Yikes. Mar 30, 2009

Nick Barczak

5.10d

I thought this was a really good climb. The two bolts protect the moves on the lower half perfectly. I thought the crux move was at the 2nd bolt. Bring micronuts and purple/blue mastercams for the crack. It is tricky, but patience will see you through. May 23, 2010