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Routes in No Place Like Dome

Honey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pay No Attention To The Man Behind The Curtain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Question, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Storm Riders (aka The Answer) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
There Is No Place Like Home T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Welcome To Rondoland (aka Glenda's Crack) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jay Smith, Robert Finley, Rondo Powell 1989
Page Views: 53 total, 0/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Scramble up a ramp to belay. Begin up and right, then move left with the crack. Power, balance, and technique all come into play as one moves past the dwindling crack. Continue back left as the crack reappears.

Without HB brass, this route would deserve an "R" rating; even with, it may deserve a "PG".

Protection

Gear to 2". Thin tcu's/aliens and brass a must! Gear anchor.

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Murf
 
Murf  
 
I remember getting sufficient brass that I felt the route was PG. I don't consider myself particularly bold, or exceptional at gear placement. Nov 30, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10d R
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10d R
This certainly deserves the "R" . There is no way on earth, with brass or no brass that this would warrant a "PG" pro rating. Crux moves involve almost horizonal liebacking well above last pro which is in less than ideal rock. Small aliens will get you about 1/3 of the way up the crack, after that, good luck. Take brass offsets, but good luck placing it, and even if you frig one in, you will not want to whip on it. There's nothing really tricky about the climbing, no worries about botching a sequence or getting crossed up, just some liebacking off one side then the other. If you get snail eye, there is a two bolt .10c pitch just right that you could bail into. Makes a great TR because the climbing is really fun. Nov 25, 2006