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Realm of the Flying Monkeys

5.11a, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Geoff Archer and Dave Stoner, November 1989
California > Joshua Tree NP > Pinto Basin > OZ Area > OZ. > Hawk Hatchery
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Uphill and left (south) of the main Hawk Hatchery Crag is a large block with a distinctive pointed arete containing this route.

Short but entertaining, this climbs a vertical arete/face with mostly good edges on quality patina. A good route to do if climbed in conjunction with some of the other nearby routes in the area.

Given a more difficult rating in various guidebooks, this route as some of the others in this area, is a bit easier than suggested. Two, maybe three stars out of five.

Protection

4 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Michelle at the crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts.
[Hide Photo] Michelle at the crux between the 3rd and 4th bolts.
Michelle planning her moves for the onsight.
[Hide Photo] Michelle planning her moves for the onsight.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Murf
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Mostly solid, although a big hold just above the last bolt won't be there forever. Thought the moves after the last bolt where as hard as the moves to the last bolt. The hardest part of this route is the walk to it. Jan 12, 2004
Richard Shore
 
[Hide Comment] Great steep climb that probably doesn't get the traffic it deserves. I popped a few smaller footholds off of the climb, and the large pancake flake above the last bolt is ready to give up the ghost. I pulled on it unknowingly; it creaked and squeaked, and I escaped back right onto the arete to finish. May (or may not) get harder when that hold goes. Dec 19, 2011
Tradiban
951-527-7959
[Hide Comment] Big flake above the last bolt came off today, if anything made the route easier.

Fun moves on big plates but it will always be grainy and a little chossy. Jan 31, 2021