Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Tony Yaniro, Mike Waugh & Nick Badyrka, January 1978
Page Views: 2,431 total · 9/month
Shared By: Steve Juhasz on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This route is totally awesome in its difficulty. It is a stunning line, the most impressive on the whole east face of this rock. Start by bouldering up directly under the bolt, some long reaches required through the grainy rock here. After clipping the bolt, do a very tricky mantle (feels like V4) and then move left to sloping ledge. Once you get into the overhanging corner, place some gear and try stemming your way to the top. Mantling out is easy. The crux is starting the stemming, may be easier with tiny fingers, Mike said the grade was just an estimate, they really did not have a good idea of it. This climb is rarely done, and it is much harder than the grade would suggest. Easily toproped now from the bolt anchor.

Protection Suggest change

One bolt (3/8" stainless), then small TCU's from #1 to #4, two bolt anchor (3/8" stainless) on top.