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Routes in Watergate Rock

Dirty Tricks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fifteen Minute Gap T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
H.R. Hardman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
I Am Not A Crook T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Malicious Deception T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midday Lightning S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pardon Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Political Asylum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
T-N-T S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
T. Gordon Liddy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tricky Dick S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsightly Blemishes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Collar Crime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White House Plumbers TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA (TR): Kevin Powell, 1981, FL: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hensel, November 1986
Page Views: 93 total · 0/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

Thin and technical steep slab climbing at the bottom will keep you on your toes, while higher the difficulty eases and the bolts become more spaced as the rock becomes much coarse and loose. Don't be confused by another line to the right which joins this route at it's third bolt.

Location [Edit]

Located on the smooth face just right of the leaning block and the route T-N-T.

Protection [Edit]

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8") with chains


Route was named because of the "dirty tricks" used to place the 1st bolt on the route (and in keeping with the Watergate Theme). 2 climbers stood at the base and held another climber's feet on to the holds so he could drill the 1st bolt. Somewhere I have an incriminating photo of these shenanigans. We ended up not freeing the entire route and JW and DH came along later and bagged the FFA. Dec 5, 2003
This route is really fun. It's rather tenuous; there are some places not to fall from and some bad rock higher up, but the crux is bulletproof and very cool. I seem to remember that getting the second (or third?) bolt clipped was a bit desperate and I didn't want to blow it from there. I give it 3/5 stars. Dec 23, 2008

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