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Jane's Getting Serious

5.12b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Bob Gaines and Rondo Powell, November 1987; FFA: Tom Herbert, December 1988
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Echo Rock > EBGB Block Area
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

Around and left from EBGB's is this excellent route that sees even less traffic than it's neighbor.

An undercut and bouldery start (very reachy) leads to high-quality face moves that end atop the EBGB's block. Originally done with a point of aid at 5.11b A0, the route was later freed. There is an anchor in the center of the block (same as for EBGB's) and the rap is off bolts on the opposite side of the formation.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jane's Getting Serious
[Hide Photo] Jane's Getting Serious
Yvonne Gaines leading Jane's Getting Serious, back in the swami belt days (1987)
[Hide Photo] Yvonne Gaines leading Jane's Getting Serious, back in the swami belt days (1987)
EBGB's Boulder
[Hide Photo] EBGB's Boulder

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
 
[Hide Comment] I don't believe this route has been freed without a pile of cheat stones. On the first ascent, I brought some milk crates to stand on to drill the first bolt. Without cheat stones, you'll need the leaping abiltiy of Kobe Bryant just to jump up and latch the first handholds. Dec 22, 2008
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] My experience on this route (BITD) confirms what Bob states. Even with the cheat stones, the route was wicked hard. Apr 6, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
[Hide Comment] Sounds like a job for Dean Potter. With his height and ape index the pile of stones likely wouldn't be an issue. Aug 9, 2014
Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Aid off the first bolt, then the rest of it is fun, well-protected face climbing (5.11b) past 5 more bolts. Nov 27, 2015