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Routes in EBGB Block Area

Cheetah TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Control T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
EBGB's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jane's Getting Serious T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Life in the Fast Lane T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sinner's Swing T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tarzan T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Zondo's Perks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines and Rondo Powell, November 1987; FFA: Tom Herbert, December 1988
Page Views: 1,040 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Around and left from EBGB's is this excellent route that sees even less traffic than it's neighbor.

An undercut and bouldery start (very reachy) leads to high-quality face moves that end atop the EBGB's block. Originally done with a point of aid at 5.11b A0, the route was later freed. There is an anchor in the center of the block (same as for EBGB's) and the rap is off bolts on the opposite side of the formation.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors

Photos

Bob Gaines  
 
Aid off the first bolt, then the rest of it is fun, well-protected face climbing (5.11b) past 5 more bolts. Nov 27, 2015
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Sounds like a job for Dean Potter. With his height and ape index the pile of stones likely wouldn't be an issue. Aug 9, 2014
Randy
  5.12b/c
Randy  
  5.12b/c
My experience on this route (BITD) confirms what Bob states. Even with the cheat stones, the route was wicked hard. Apr 6, 2010
Bob Gaines  
 
I don't believe this route has been freed without a pile of cheat stones. On the first ascent, I brought some milk crates to stand on to drill the first bolt. Without cheat stones, you'll need the leaping abiltiy of Kobe Bryant just to jump up and latch the first handholds. Dec 22, 2008