Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, 1994, FL: Rex Pieper, 1994
Page Views: 888 total · 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. Details


Climb the outer face of the flake past a low bolt, then continue up the smooth face above the flake (crux) to shared anchors with Electric Blue. The lower portion of the route is on grainier rock while the upper portion is on high-quality stone.


Right of Electric Blue is a large tan-colored flake resting against the main face, which is the start of this route.


4 bolts, anchors


Not a big deal, but Bob Gaines was the toprope FAist. I bolted it a month or so later from the ground up (not knowing it was already a TR). So my ascent was the "first lead".

I gave it the name Shock to the System because I took a fall above the 3rd bolt and hit the ledge formed by the top of the huge flake. After lowering, I redpointed the route second try. Several months later, I added the 4th bolt, after thinking about the unecessary fall danger that another bolt would eliminate. Jan 20, 2004
Route seemed 10b/c and is pretty fun. One observation: The 2nd bolt (the first above the large flake/ledge) is extremely low and would do little to prevent a ledge fall getting to the next bolt. Same critique for the 3rd bolt.

Fun slab climbing on excellent grey patina. Oct 11, 2004
Good rock! Sep 8, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Good movement on great patina rock. Unfortunately, the 4th bolt placement is quite dangerous (as Randy mentions). The crux (I feel 10c) comes right below the bolt, and a fall would probably result in a 20-25' ledge fall. Only do this route if you are solid at the grade. The bottom moves (1st bolt) are on grainy rock, but the movement is still fun. Apr 19, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Humm, seems we're all on the same page on this route. Let it be mentioned that the lower section as you climb a large flake is a bit grainy and the first bolt is silly close to the rock/base, you'd deck for sure if you blew it getting to the ledge.

As for the second portion of the route, the quality of rock is much improved and the climbing fun as you use friction and technical footwork on the slab. I was convinced there were only two bolts on the upper section but did come across a 3rd just as the angle decreased. I figured, why bother. (Although now I've seen the story on why).

Worth doing, not necessarily worth leading if you've done the 9 to the right. The lower off puts you right at the start for a quick TR. May 30, 2008
Agree with all the above, except the "not worth doing unless". Bolts seemed in odd positions, the first especially, 5.10c. Oct 20, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Looking at the way the bolts were placed today I elected not to lead this route. Didn't want my wife and kids to get a phone call from JT medical Center. Jan 30, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Well glad to see that the consensus on this is 10c since that's what I was thinking. I didn't notice the bolt placement since the TR is such and easy setup. Smeary moves on excellent rock. Good route. Apr 18, 2011
Bolt locations are less than optimal as it was done "ground up" and bolted from hooks or from aiding on previous bolt. Better placements would've been available with lesser ethics.

Welcome to Joshua Tree ;) Aug 14, 2011
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Hard to believe those bolts went in on the lead unless the bolter was a midget. 2nd bolt is right off a massive ledge... and is at your waist. Nice climb marred by poor bolt locations. Jan 2, 2012
Very short climbing sections. The crux section was fun. Standing on smears/rounded edges and repeating about six times until the angle lets up. Feb 19, 2013