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Routes in Bighorn Dome

Aliens Ate My Buick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Greenhorn Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jack in the Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Love Goat, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poaching Bighorn T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Don Wilson and Jack Marshall 2/88
Page Views: 60 total · 0/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route begins just left of Greehorn Dihedral on a protruding narrow rectangular block. Climb past three bolts using edges on the face as well as the arete on both sides of the block to a small roof. Ascend the roof into a thin crack that ends on a ledge. The rock is somewhat grainy to the roof but solid once the thin crack is reached. Two out of five stars.

Protection

Mostly small/ medium TCU's, cams, and stoppers plus quick draws for three 1/4" bolts and one piton. An anchor can be set up where the route converges with "Greenhorn Dihedral."

Photos

Tommy L-D  
 
Quite a bit of lichen/kitty litter on the bottom section. Piton/bolts leave something to be desired, but not too bad. The upper section is great (***) and the lower section has fun moves, but the rock quality detracts from the experience. Worth doing and will get better with more traffic. Mar 25, 2012
The route was somewhat loose and dirty throughout. The move off the deck was a little exposed. The section past the third bolt and before the roof is somewhat spooky given the rock and bolt quality. But with more traffic and better bolts, this could be a fun route. Nov 5, 2005