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Routes in Cap Rock - North Face

Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bush Eviction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Event Horizon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
False Lieback T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
False Prophet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Icy, But Not Too Dicey T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nutcracker T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Retirement T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Space Odyssey T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Thin Ice TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: (TR) Mike Waugh 1979, FL: Bob Gaines & Tommy Romero 4/97
Page Views: 1,152 total · 6/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Oct 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Originally rated 11a on TR, this fine route is in the middle of the "amphitheater" on the upper north face. The climb begins as a thin crack that tapers to a seam where the first of three closely spaced bolts occurs. Powerful tips liebacking and high steps lead to the top. Clipping the bolts is tenuous / strenuous! Great rock - three out of five stars.


Two or three small cams or TCU's plus quick draws for three bolts. A two bolt anchor with webbing is at the top.


Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Interesting climb going from a shallow crack to hard face. Lieback city. On TR this felt at least 5.11b. Mar 20, 2006
Bryan G
Bryan G   Yosemite
I really like this route. Well protected and fun moves, plus it's right next to the road. I'm surprised to never see anyone on it whenever I drive by. It reminds me of the crux of Huevos on Intersection Rock which is another good fingertip lieback to try.

There is a bolted rap station w/chains about 30 feet to the left of the Ayatollah anchors. Apr 19, 2010
I just did this route on monday 11/15/2010. I took a fall from just past the second bolt, and then got through it on my second go. Definitely make good use of the rest on the horizontal, because the lieback is very sustained. I think the route deserves at least three or four stars. I know it's short, but it's a beautiful line, in a beautiful setting on awesome rock! Also, it's very well protected. Definitely something you can push your limits on. Nov 17, 2010

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