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> Central Joshua…
> Sheep Pass Area
> Cap Rock Area
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> Cap Rock Upper N Face
The Ayatollah
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 13
votes
Routes in Cap Rock Upper North Face
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Anniversary Special T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Ayatollah, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Circus T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Circus, Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Horror-zontal Terror-verse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lil Squirt S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tightrope TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 33.9898, -116.16329 |
| FA: | (TR) Mike Waugh 1979, FL: Bob Gaines & Tommy Romero, April 1997 |
| Page Views: | 2,439 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Vernon Stiefel on Oct 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A longstanding top rope route that was later bolted; it was originally rated 5.11a. This fine route is in the middle of the "amphitheater" on the Upper North Face of Cap Rock. The climb begins as a thin crack that tapers to a seam where the first of three closely spaced bolts occurs. Powerful tips liebacking and high steps lead to the top. Clipping the bolts is tenuous and strenuous! Great rock!
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