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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)

A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mind Meld TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Mind over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira, Marjorie Shovlin & Maria Cranor, 11/82
Page Views: 1,065 total, 6/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Left of Head Over Heals lie two 5.9 "Poodle" routes, A Farewell To Poodles and For Whom The Poodle Tolls. FWTPT is a fun route; a little grainy, but worth doing if in the area. Bartlett gives it a "PG" rating, but I felt it protected fine. The descent down gully to climber's left involves a move or two of 5.3 downclimbing around a large boulder.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Harris G
Riverside
 
Harris G   Riverside
 
I accidentally did a variation on this route. I climbed straight up the crack just to the left of the actual route to the roof, got above it to where the crack widens and then disappears and traversed into the correct rack. A little cruxy here, but probably on grade. Apr 24, 2017
Felt that it was solid J Tree 5.9, gear down low is marginal but good enough Apr 4, 2016
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
A return to hardish lead climbing for me today(2015 OCT) crushed it, and having not led a Jtree .9 in a few years I still felt you had plenty of gear options down low. Having to commit for the first few moves is just part of climbing. My partner( a stranger and obvious sport climber) kept asking why no one had invented a 'stick cam' which I laughed and said I am sure someone has made one. Okay but seriously I LOVED this climb, and I agree compared to other .9 classics like Pope's Crack or Touch and Go its strikes me as being a little stiffer. The initial moves are definitely in the 10a range and makes the rest of the route seem super cruiser. Oct 12, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I'm sure in some other decade I've done this route before. But much like Madonna, this last visit "feels like the very first time".

Enjoyable enough but the pro low is concerning enough I didn't lead it and was glad for that. Found A Farewell to Poodles neighbor to the right way more fun and easier to protect low. Absolutely both worth doing while in the area but heads up for your average 5.9 leader. Jul 26, 2013
BCramer
Prescott
 
BCramer   Prescott
 
Solid 5.9 line. Oct 15, 2009
Woody Stark
  5.10a
Woody Stark  
  5.10a
We did this today, and both of us felt it was a solid 10a. Be that as it may, it was a very good route with excellent pro. Also, a set of slings around a good sized knob have been placed for a secure rap. Apr 23, 2005
Randy  
Don't forget the 5.8 Poodle route to the left of FWTPT, The Old Man and The Poodle. Oct 29, 2003